Stress has become one of the most significant and defining health challenges of our time, impacting millions of people worldwide. It affects not only mental well-being but also shows up as physical fatigue and skin issues.

The connection between stress and skin health involves disrupting the skin’s barrier function, which can lead to increased sensitivity. It affects the microbiome, which triggers inflammation that can exacerbate various skin conditions, such as acne, eczema, and psoriasis. Furthermore, chronic stress accelerates the aging process.

Historically, the beauty industry focused on external appearances. However, in recent years, there has been a shift toward viewing beauty as an integral part of overall health and well-being. As a result, the industry is now looking to wellness, especially stress-related skin issues.

The wellness trend has affected the cosmetic industry not just with holistic claims but also by creating a new avenue to prove the neurocosmetic effects of the active ingredients.

These new ingredients are crafted to interact between the nervous system and the skin. Their efficacy has been demonstrated through advanced biochemical assays and in-vivo clinical studies, providing a scientific foundation for their use. This scientific backing allows the industry to understand more how the textures and feelings actually work together.

Let’s delve into some of the unique activities that have been released in this space and their unique testing methods.

New ingredient innovation is addressing this not just with “calming” claims but by demonstrating measurable effects on clinical trials. Let’s have a look at some examples and creative way of clinical trials they have done for the proof.

Lubrizol – Oxylance

• What it is: A botanical extract from Ligustrum lucidum.
• Mechanism: Inspired by Tibetan populations thriving in low-oxygen environments, Oxylance mimics this adaptation by upregulating HIF-1α and downregulating HIF-2α, improving oxygenation in skin cells.
• Testing methodology:

◦ In vivo: 84 women tested a mist with 2% Oxylance versus placebo over 28 days. A third control group did a yoga session without product.

◦ Measurements: Oxy-hemoglobin levels (skin oxygen), skin glow via high-resolution photography, wrinkle depth via 3D microtopography, and emotional wellbeing using facial recognition software.

• Results: Comparable improvement to yoga—better skin oxygen, glow, reduced wrinkles (up to 68% reduction in crow’s feet), and increased feelings of happiness.

Seppic – Sepibliss Feel

• What it is: A coriander seed oil extract , marketed as “the feel-good soothing ingredient.”
• Mechanism: Protects “happiness molecules” like oxytocin and β-endorphins, while reducing nitric oxide linked to oxidative stress.
• Testing methodology:

◦ In vitro: Demonstrated +34% β-endorphin production, +11% oxytocin release, and +81% neuronal extension in stressed skin cell models.

◦ In vivo: Double-blind study with 62 volunteers (ages 22–55, sensitive/dry skin). Applied twice daily for 28 days. Self-reported wellbeing and emotional comfort analysed by neuroscientists.

• Results: Volunteers using Sepibliss reported significantly more positive emotional descriptors (comfort, nourishing, soothing) than placebo. Self-evaluation confirmed higher wellbeing.

Vytrus Biotech – Kannabia Sense

• What it is: A sativa seed extract ,designed to act on the skin–microbiome–brain axis.
• Mechanism: Stimulates oxytocin release in keratinocytes via microbiome modulation, enhancing both skin and emotional wellbeing.
• Testing methodology:

◦ Sensory evaluation: Volunteers reported stronger “connection and balance” sensations versus control formulations.

• Results: Positioned as a “microbiome–oxytocin enhancer,” linking skincare directly to social and emotional wellness.

What surprises me is the method of testing these ingredients that has been used for proof. Each of them is unique in the way it demonstrates its efficacy.

It is great to see new testing methods being developed. This is such a new area, and I am sure we will see much ground-breaking information in this specific field, as ultimately we are all serving an industry focused on helping people feel better in their skin.

The diversity and collaboration within the cosmetic industry are truly unique. I would love to see more collaboration, especially with neuroscientists working more closely with cosmetic chemists to develop innovative formulations that genuinely target the mind–body connection.

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The desire to slow down the ageing process and maintain youthful, radiant skin has driven the global demand for anti-ageing products for decades. From creams and serums to advanced dermatological treatments, the cosmetic industry has seen an explosion of products claiming to reverse or delay the effects of ageing.

One of the most exciting developments in this field is the emergence of senolytics, a class of compounds originally studied in longevity science for their potential to improve overall health and delay age-related decline.

What are senolytics?

Senolytics are compounds that specifically target and eliminate senescent cells, often referred to as “zombie cells.” These dysfunctional cells stop dividing but remain metabolically active, releasing harmful inflammatory signals that accelerate aging process, disrupt surrounding tissue and contributing to visible skin issues like wrinkles, decreased elasticity, and uneven skin tone. By clearing these cells, senolytics help restore balance, rejuvenating the skin from the inside out.

How do senolytics work in skincare?

Senolytics in cosmetics represent a significant departure from traditional approaches to anti-ageing skincare.

While most conventional products focus on hydration, collagen stimulation, or antioxidant protection – which target the skin’s surface or just beneath it – senolytics go deeper, addressing aging at its core.

Senolytics target the source of chronic skin ageing by clearing senescent cells. By eliminating these aged cells, they reduce inflammation and allow healthier cells to thrive, creating an optimal environment for skin regeneration. The result is enhanced cellular renewal, with skin’s natural repair mechanisms functioning more effectively.

Moreover, removing senescent cells reduces the pro-inflammatory cytokines they secrete, calming the skin and potentially reducing redness or irritation.
Incorporating senolytics into skincare products requires advanced formulation techniques to ensure their stability, efficacy, and safe delivery.

These powerful compounds can be effectively utilized in various types of skincare formulations. For example, they can be included in anti-ageing serums that target fine lines, wrinkles, and sagging skin, helping to restore a more youthful appearance.

Senolytics can also be incorporated into brightening treatments aimed at reducing uneven skin tone and enhancing the skin’s natural radiance. Additionally, they are valuable in recovery products, designed to calm inflammation and support sensitive skin, helping to maintain overall skin health and balance.

Examples of senolytics in cosmetic products

The potential benefits of senolytics have not gone unnoticed by the cosmetic industry, and several brands are beginning to explore their use in skincare formulations.

While the field is still developing, certain natural senolytic ingredients are gaining popularity:

• Quercetin – a flavonoid found in fruits, vegetables, and plants. Quercetin has gained attention for its senolytic properties. It works by targeting and eliminating senescent cells, making it an attractive ingredient in anti-ageing serums and creams.

• Fisetin – another flavonoid with senolytic activity. Fisetin has been shown to reduce signs of ageing in animal studies and is being explored for inclusion in cosmetic formulations aimed at improving skin health and appearance.

• Natural extracts and botanicals – several natural ingredients (grape extract, alpine willowherb, green tea extract, pomegranate extract, etc.) are being tested for their potential senolytic effects. These plant-based ingredients are valued for their ability to promote skin rejuvenation by supporting cellular renewal and combating oxidative stress, offering promise as complementary components in advanced anti-aging formulations.

Why should brands consider senolytics?

As consumers become more educated about skincare, they demand solutions that go beyond surface-level results. Senolytics align perfectly with this trend, offering a unique opportunity for brands to stand out with a scientifically advanced, research-backed approach to anti-ageing.

The demand for sustainable beauty products is also on the rise, and some natural compounds fit within this trend, offering an eco-friendly alternative to synthetic ingredients. By incorporating senolytics into their product lines, brands can appeal to a growing base of consumers seeking both efficacy and sustainability.

Future directions

While research on senolytics is still in its early stages, its implications for skincare are vast. As science progresses, we may see the development of combination therapies, where senolytics are paired with other powerful ingredients, such as retinoids, peptides, and antioxidants, to create a comprehensive approach to skin rejuvenation. These synergistic formulations could deliver more effective anti-aging benefits compared to standalone products.

Customization of skincare routines may also become more common, with personalized products tailored to individual skin concerns and ageing patterns. The growing understanding of cellular senescence and its impact on ageing will likely lead to more personalized skincare treatments.
Products may be developed to target the specific types of senescent cells present in an individual’s skin, enhancing the effectiveness of anti-aging solutions.

Beyond combating the visible signs of ageing, senolytics could offer solutions for other skin conditions associated with inflammation and cellular dysfunction, such as hyperpigmentation and chronic sensitivity. This expanding scope underscores the potential of senolytics to transform not only anti-ageing strategies but also broader aspects of skin health and care.

Senolytics represent an exciting frontier in the cosmetic industry, offering a novel and scientifically-backed approach to combat ageing. By targeting and eliminating senescent cells, these compounds have the potential to transform the way we think about skincare and anti-ageing.

As research progresses and more products incorporate senolytic ingredients, consumers can look forward to more effective, long-term solutions for maintaining youthful, glowing skin. With their ability to reduce inflammation, promote skin regeneration, and boost collagen production, senolytics could very well become the next big thing in the quest for age-defying beauty.

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(Sponsored Content) – Q&A with Gentaro Hayashi, CEO of Vitamin C60

Can you please explain to us what makes fullerene such high performance materials?　
Fullerene is the super antioxidant for anti-ageing with strong, long-lasting, and stable features and, interestingly, the professors who discovered Fullerene received the Nobel Prize in Chemistry in 1996. Fullerene can be expected to have an antioxidant effect more than 250 times that of vitamin C. We have focused on Fullerene for more than 15 years and are held in high esteem by dermatologists and manufacturers alike.
Clinical tests have been done on the efficacy of Fullerene on age spots, wrinkles, acne, skin barrier function, pore tightening, and even more. By formulating with Fullerene ingredients you can produce high-performing, anti-ageing cosmetics.

Why are fullerenes so popular in South-East Asia?
Our Fullerene ingredients are popular in Japan, China and other Asian countries because of their high functionality and high safety coupled with Japanese quality. It is also praised for its abundant collection of highly reliable clinical data. Most clinical trials are the result of joint research with university professors and cosmetic dermatologists, and many trials have been published at academic conferences and also published as papers.
We also approach consumers by posting our articles on social media. We are carrying out promotional activities to raise consumer awareness of Fullerene.
Last year, our ingredient, Radical Sponge received its halal certification. We think that having obtained Halal certification makes it easier to formulate our ingredients in products that are targeting a worldwide audience.

You are launching five more Fullerene products this year, tell us more about these… 
This October, we are planning to launch 5 new ingredients containing naturally-derived Fullerene. We spent almost 5 years developing the naturally-derived Fullerene and this naturally-derived Fullerene is produced from the cedar of domestic forests that are well managed for sustainability. We produce our naturally-derived Fullerene by using hydroelectric power. The use of a clean energy source means the manufacturing process is also environmentally friendly. For manufacturers, our ingredients are packaged in an aluminium pouch, which can reduce the volume of industrial waste.
In short, our new Fullerene ingredients are the strongest antioxidant ingredient for ageing care, with natural, high-performance, sustainable and eco-friendly properties.

Tell us more about the benefits of incorporating these naturally-derived Fullerene into formulations
Our fullerene ingredients are UV, heat and pH stable and easily blended into any cosmetic formulation. Our ingredients are easy to formulate and are mixed into various items from skincare to make-up and these are all available for customers via our formulation guidelines.
As mentioned above, our ingredients are multi-functional with high quality so our Fullerene ingredients are the best solution for “Anti-Ageing”, “Clean Beauty” ,”J-Beauty” and “Sustainable” concepts.

Want to find out more? Check out Vitamin C60’s range

As we look back on in-cosmetics Global 2024, it allows us to reflect on the biggest trends, learnings, and takeaways from this year’s flagship event in Paris.

Hosting over 12,000 visitors and upwards of 1,000 exhibitors, the show went off without a hitch. With experts and enthusiasts hailing from all sides of the global beauty and personal care industry, coming together to network, connect, and engage in meaningful face-to-face discussions, the event spotlighted some of the biggest innovations and scientific breakthroughs in ingredients to date.

In addition to the numerous product releases, with exhibitors showcasing their latest innovative solutions, the show acted as a valuable platform for learning and engagement. The event’s theatres and conference areas, including the Marketing Trends Theatre, Technical Seminars, and Sustainability Zone Forum were a breeding ground for pioneering discussions around the future of beauty and personal care and beyond.

Home to many of the world’s most iconic make up and cosmetics brands, Paris was an appropriate setting for in-cosmetics Global 2024. Living up to its reputation, developments in the French market were full of originality and innovation, with ingredient manufacturers from the region launching some exciting new products and delving deep into the world of beauty and personal care.

Fostering a sustainable future

With sustainability standing firm as a core pillar of this year’s event, eco-friendly practices were reflected in many of the newly released ingredients in the region.

For example, French producer of natural, active ingredients, Actichem introduced Resvinia, a groundbreaking natural hair care ingredient sourced from upcycled French vine shoots. Efficacy studies have proven that this active can be used in haircare formulations to reduce hair loss, stimulate hair growth, and offer both protection and anti-pollution properties. Meanwhile, the upcycling element of the process has the potential to significantly reduce waste throughout production.

Sustainable methods of ingredient sourcing such as upcycling are becoming increasingly commonplace in markets across the globe. This is especially true in the French market where consumers are demanding a new approach.

According to data from Klarna, 61% of French women reported that they would be prepared to spend more money on environmentally friendly skincare, while 33% believe that respect for sustainability should become mandatory for manufacturers.

This trend was proliferated throughout numerous aspects of the show, with many other exhibitors and visitors demonstrating their commitment to sustainable practices moving forward.

Another organisation from the region which showcased its expertise in this area was the Herbarom Group, a French manufacturer of natural cosmetics that specialises in using natural ingredients and plant extracts. Located in the heart of one of France’s main fruit-growing regions, Herbarom Laboratoirer has easy access to a range of invaluable natural resources.

Supporting this eco-friendly approach, the organisation has recently formed a strategic partnership with ChestNut, a local company specialising in the recovery of raw materials from arboriculture to source flowers. At the show, Herbarom Labratoire released its new upcycled ingredient, Chestnut hydroglycerine extract, obtained from the pericarp of chestnuts intended to be consumed in the form of marrons glacés confectionery.

These notable innovations highlight the growing trend towards sustainable ingredient sourcing, largely driven by a rising consumer demand for environmentally responsible cosmetic products in the French region. Of course, the move towards sustainable practices will require collaborative efforts, improved regulatory support and a continued consumer education.

Well-ageing: a reimagined approach

One of the most progressive themes at this year’s in-cosmetics Global event, was the idea of a reimagined approached to ageing. Where anti-ageing products and practices have previously reigned supreme among beauty brands and consumers, the focus is now beginning to shift as the market embraces a more inclusive view.

French women, known for their embrace of ageing, embody this shift. Their philosophy aligns with Coco Chanel‘s famous quote: “Life shapes the face you have at thirty. But at fifty you get the face you deserve.” In France, ageing gracefully is about self-acceptance and inner beauty, prioritising natural skincare and a balanced approach over aggressive anti-aging measures.

Numerous sessions at the show reflected on the trend that’s commonly being referred to as ‘well-ageing’ or ‘pro-ageing’.

For example, Joonseok Cha, PhD, Research Director at The Garden of Naturalsolution, led a popular technical seminar on ‘Anti-ageing: Top to Bottom’, which focused on the emerging trend of ‘slow and well ageing’ over ‘anti-ageing’ as he noted that teenagers as young as 14-years-old are adopting practices to target wrinkles. Cha shared research findings on a variety of ingredients, underscoring their potential in helping to slow the ageing process, naturally.

Meanwhile, Michele Superchi, Vice President at BEAUTYSTREAMS – a leading insights platform for the global beauty industry – presented a session entitled, ‘Health-Span Beauty: The impact of longevity on our industry’.

Superchi highlighted that the impact of advanced technologies, more effective medicines, and a better understanding of our bodies, have significantly extended the average human life span. In a world that lives longer, Superchi emphasised that youth cannot be the only solution to beauty, suggesting that a more inclusive future beauty industry would acknowledge and celebrate the beautiful moments in every age category.

While there’s no doubt that the anti-ageing therapeutics market in France remains robust – with projections[1] to reach $53 million by 2030 and an expected 15.53% CAGR throughout the forecast period – there’s a shift on the horizon. Many French cosmetics consumers are increasingly embracing the idea of self-acceptance, and as a result, their relationship with different cosmetic products is changing.

Specialist sensory and consumer research and testing organisation, Syres[2], conducted some recent research exploring well-ageing and the key beauty challenges for female French consumers above the age of 55.

When asked about their definition of beauty, respondents most frequently cited the notions of well-being and self-acceptance (62%), mentioning “feeling good about yourself despite the years” and “accepting yourself as you are”.

The results suggest that respondents – women over the age of 55 – predominantly remain positive, serene and feel good about themselves. Despite being much less known in France than in Asia, the research concluded that the well-ageing trend fits perfectly with what women in the region are looking for – namely products that extend the beauty of their skin in a natural way, while taking care of them inside and out.

This evolving mindset is paving the way for a more holistic and inclusive beauty industry, one that prioritises wellbeing and self-acceptance over the elusive pursuit of eternal youth. As the trend gains traction, it signals a significant shift in consumer attitudes and market dynamics, highlighting a future where beauty is celebrated at every stage of life.

in-cosmetics Global 2024 offered insight into some of the most prevalent trends and significant innovations taking hold of the French cosmetics industry to date.

The emphasis on sustainability, with initiatives like upcycling reflects a growing consumer demand for environmentally responsible products.

Additionally, the shift from traditional anti-ageing to the introduction of a more inclusive “well-ageing” approach highlights a broader acceptance of beauty at all life stages. The trends indicate a transformative period in the industry, driven by technological advancements, consumer preferences, and a collective commitment to sustainability and wellbeing. As the French market continues to evolve, it sets a precedent for the global beauty industry, championing innovation and inclusivity in equal measure.

in-cosmetics Global 2025 will take place from 8-10 April 2025 at the RAI Amsterdam Convention Centre in Amsterdam, the Netherlands. For more information and to register interest to attend, visit here.

[1] https://www.insights10.com/report/france-anti-aging-therapeutics-market-analysis/

[2] https://www.syres.com/ds/news/2304/well-aging-survey-of-women-over-55-in-france2c-syngapour/

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“Epigenetics” is an area of scientific research, which has gradually infiltrated various industries, including cosmetics, over the years. But what exactly is epigenetics, and why is it relevant to cosmetics?

Essentially, epigenetics, a term coined in biology, refers to a set of instructions that regulate gene activity without altering the DNA sequence.

These instructions, influenced by factors such as environment, lifestyle, and experiences, dictate when genes are turned on or off. While they don’t change our genes, they significantly impact our health and appearance.

Understanding epigenetics is extremely beneficial in cosmetics as it informs skincare and haircare formulations tailored to individual needs, addressing concerns like ageing and treatment response effectively.

Understanding How Epigenetics Works

Epigenetic mechanisms control gene activity without changing the DNA sequence. As biological research progresses, other mechanisms are likely to be discovered, and currently the key types include:

• DNA methylation, which adds a chemical tag to DNA.
• Histone modification, altering proteins around which DNA is wound.
• Non-coding RNAs, like microRNAs, that can influence gene expression.
• Chromatin remodelling, which adjusts how tightly DNA is packaged.
• As well as changes that can be inherited across generations.

These mechanisms respond to factors like diet, stress, and environmental exposures, influencing traits such as ageing, disease susceptibility, and hair or skin characteristics ^1,2,3,4.

The Science Behind Youthful Skin

Epigenetics reveals how our skin ages. DNA methylation and histone changes play big roles. As we age, these processes shift, leading to wrinkles, lines, and less bounce in our skin.

Understanding these changes helps explain why skin ages and how it happens. It’s like a roadmap guiding scientists to develop treatments and skincare products that target these specific changes.

By addressing epigenetic factors, we can slow down ageing and keep our skin looking youthful for longer. It’s not just about creams and serums; it’s about understanding the science behind our skin’s journey through time.

Combatting Ageing with Epigenetic Cosmetics

“Epigenetic cosmetics” offer a new frontier in fighting ageing.

These formulations are designed to target specific changes in gene activity that occur as we age. By using ingredients that affect epigenetic processes, like DNA methylation and histone modification, these cosmetics can boost collagen production, repair skin cells, and bring back youthful gene patterns.

It’s like giving our skin a fresh start, helping it to regain its firmness, smoothness and vitality. With epigenetic cosmetics, we’re not just covering up wrinkles; we’re addressing the root causes of ageing, offering a promising path to more youthful and radiant skin.

Addressing Hyperpigmentation

Hyperpigmentation disorders like melasma and age spots can originate from epigenetic changes. These alterations can lead to overproduction of melanin, leading to uneven skin tone.

Epigenetic-based skincare aims to counteract these changes by regulating melanin production. Formulations may include ingredients targeting DNA methylation and histone modification to restore balanced gene expression in melanocytes.

By addressing these underlying epigenetic disproportions, these skincare solutions can help fade pigmentation irregularities and promote a more even complexion. Through the science of epigenetics, skincare advances toward personalized treatments tailored to individuals’ unique skin needs, offering hope for those seeking effective solutions for hyperpigmentation.

Protecting Skin from Environmental Stressors

Environmental stressors like UV radiation, pollution, and stress induce epigenetic modifications in skin cells, contributing to ageing and damage.

Epigenetic-targeted cosmetics can address this by fortifying the skin’s defences against these stressors. Formulations may incorporate ingredients like antioxidants and DNA repair enzymes to counteract epigenetic damage and promote healthier gene expression patterns ⁵. For instance, sunscreen, a vital component of skincare, shields against harmful UV rays, preventing epigenetic changes linked to ageing and skin cancer.

Hydrating and Strengthening the Skin Barrier

Epigenetics regulates genes that are responsible for skin hydration and barrier function, which is crucial for healthy skin.

Epigenetic-based skincare formulations hold promise in restoring moisture and reinforcing the skin barrier. By targeting DNA methylation and histone modifications, these products can promote optimal gene expression patterns, enhancing hydration and resilience.

Ingredients like ceramides and hyaluronic acid further support skin barrier integrity, sealing in moisture and preventing water loss. Through epigenetic modulation, skincare advances toward personalized solutions tailored to individual skin needs, ensuring hydration and strength for a healthier, more resilient complexion.

Personalized Skincare Solutions

Personalized skincare is on the rise, partially thanks to advancements in epigenetic profiling technologies ^6,7. These innovations enable the customization of cosmetic products based on individual epigenetic profiles, addressing specific genetic predispositions and skin concerns.

By analysing epigenetic markers, such as DNA methylation patterns, skincare brands can offer tailored solutions for each person’s unique needs. This personalized approach to beauty ensures that individuals receive targeted treatments that maximize effectiveness and promote skin health.

As the trend continues to grow, consumers can expect a more precise and personalized skincare experience, enhancing their beauty routines with science-backed solutions.

The Future of Epigenetic Cosmetics

Many advanced studies in epigenetics are still in their early stages of experimentation, and it will take time to translate these findings into market-ready products. The full scope of the efficacy of topical applications on genetic influences remains to be comprehensively understood and explored.

However, looking ahead, epigenetics will continue to be not only relevant but also at the forefront of beauty innovation.

With ongoing technological advancements in biological sciences and continued investment from leading cosmetics brands, the focus on incorporating epigenetics into cosmetic products is poised for significant growth. Factors such as increasing disposable incomes, progressive lifestyles, and heightened beauty consciousness will drive demand for innovative skincare solutions among consumers.

Moreover, the Asia-Pacific region, with its increasing consumer spending on premium skincare and the influence of global beauty trends on millennials and Gen Z, is expected to experience similar growth. This will enable the development of personalized skincare solutions tailored to individual genetic profiles.

Bibliography

1. He J, He H, Qi Y, Yang J, Zhi L, Jia Y. Application of epigenetics in dermatological research and skin management. J Cosmet Dermatol. 2022 May;21(5):1920-1930. doi: 10.1111/jocd.14355. Epub 2021 Aug 6. PMID: 34357681.
2. Andersen B, Millar S. Skin epigenetics. Exp Dermatol. 2021 Aug;30(8):1004-1008. doi: 10.1111/exd.14418. Epub 2021 Jul 5. PMID: 34223679; PMCID: PMC8664073.
3. Tiffon C. The Impact of Nutrition and Environmental Epigenetics on Human Health and Disease. Int J Mol Sci. 2018 Nov 1;19(11):3425. doi: 10.3390/ijms19113425. PMID: 30388784; PMCID: PMC6275017.
4. Bollati, V., Baccarelli, A. Environmental epigenetics. Heredity 105, 105–112 (2010). https://doi.org/10.1038/hdy.2010.2.
5. Weinhold B. Epigenetics: the science of change. Environ Health Perspect. 2006 Mar;114(3):A160-7. doi: 10.1289/ehp.114-a160. PMID: 16507447; PMCID: PMC1392256.
6. Mehrmohamadi M, Sepehri MH, Nazer N, Norouzi MR. A Comparative Overview of Epigenomic Profiling Methods. Front Cell Dev Biol. 2021 Jul 22;9:714687. doi: 10.3389/fcell.2021.714687. PMID: 34368164; PMCID: PMC8340004.
7. Orioli D, Dellambra E. Epigenetic Regulation of Skin Cells in Natural Aging and Premature Aging Diseases. Cells. 2018 Dec 12;7(12):268. doi: 10.3390/cells7120268. PMID: 30545089; PMCID: PMC6315602.

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The beauty industry has undergone a significant transformation in recent years, shifting its focus from exclusively targeting youth to embracing the beauty of ageing gracefully. This paradigm shift is driven by a deeper understanding of consumers’ evolving needs and advancements in skincare ingredients and technologies. In this article, we explore the convergence of these two key trends in the world of anti-ageing beauty.

The beauty industry is undergoing a revolution, one that celebrates and acknowledges the elegance of ageing. This change goes beyond being just a passing trend; it represents a fundamental shift in the industry’s approach to beauty. One notable example of this shift is the L’Oréal Paris Age Perfect Golden Age Rosy-Oil Serum campaign in the Nordics. This campaign features influencers ranging from 45 to 84 years old, highlighting the growing interest in the mature market.

Mature beauty consumers are a powerful demographic with significant purchasing power. According to a 2019 AARP survey, 40% of Gen X and 53% of Boomers feel overlooked by the beauty industry and desire products tailored to their specific needs. This “Silver Spender” segment, which holds 50% of the global net worth, is projected to spend a staggering $15 trillion by 2030 , underlining their economic influence.

One significant trend in anti-ageing products is the move towards natural and organic ingredients. Consumers are becoming more discerning about their skincare choices, opting for products that are free of harsh chemicals and unnecessary additives. Plant extracts, essential oils, and traditional herbal remedies have gained popularity due to their perceived benefits. Ingredient innovation also plays a pivotal role, with a focus on developing novel ingredients that enhance the efficacy of anti-ageing solutions.

One such innovative ingredient is JD Phyto-Or 1% by Jojoba Desert. This natural active skin repair solution combines JD Jojoba oil with concentrated phytoene, extracted from a non-GMO fungi. JD Phyto-Or 1% offers exceptional benefits, including improved skin elasticity, reduced wrinkles, and protection against oxidative stress-induced damage.

In the quest for ageless beauty, there is a growing emphasis on preventative skincare products. The minimalist approach, using one or two evidence-based multifunctional anti-ageing products, is gaining popularity. Retinol and Vitamin-C continue to be household names for anti-ageing ingredients.

The anti-ageing revolution challenges traditional beauty standards that prioritize youth over natural ageing. Skincare clinics are offering treatments tailored to mature consumers, featuring skincare-infused formulations and a more subdued to “well ageing”. This revolution extends beyond products; it aims to change the narrative around ageing, celebrating it as a phase of life rich with beauty and experience.

One of the most significant changes in the beauty industry is the rise of mature makeup. In the past, makeup was primarily marketed towards younger consumers, with anti-ageing products taking a back seat. However, in recent years, there has been a shift towards developing makeup products tailored to the needs of mature skin. Many of these products feature natural ingredients and offer anti-ageing benefits, providing a more holistic approach to beauty.

In addition to makeup, skincare for mature skin is also evolving. For example, many skincare products now feature ingredients like retinol, which can help to promote collagen production and reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. Other ingredients, like Vitamin C, can help to brighten the complexion and reduce the appearance of age spots. Many of these ingredients are derived from natural sources, providing a safer and more effective alternative to traditional anti-ageing products.

Another key trend in anti-ageing beauty is the use of hybrid applications. Hybrid applications refer to products that combine multiple benefits into one, providing consumers with a convenient and cost-effective skincare routine. For example, a moisturizer with SPF protection and anti-ageing benefits is a popular hybrid product. These types of products are especially attractive to busy consumers who want to simplify their skincare routine without sacrificing efficacy.

The beauty industry’s focus on natural ingredients, multifunctional products, and preventative skincare has led to a more inclusive and holistic approach to beauty. The celebration of ageing and the promotion of ageless beauty has created a more diverse and accepting beauty industry, one that caters to the needs of all consumers. As the industry continues to evolve, we can expect to see more innovation and growth in the world of anti-ageing beauty.

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Join us on Tuesday 12 December as we explore natural ingredients, sustainability and anti-ageing with personal care ingredient suppliers from across the world. Register to watch live or on-demand.

PROGRAMME:

STIMULATING SKIN’S NATURAL HEALING, A PROMISING STRATEGY TO FILL IN WRINKLES (HALLSTAR BEAUTY)

COSMETIC PEPTIDES AND A POTENTIAL TFA BAN: MITIGATIVE ACTIONS TO PREPARE FOR THE FUTURE (SENN CHEMICALS)

(Tuesday 12 December)
9:40am, London time / 10:40am, Paris time / 11:40am, Warsaw time / 17:40, Beijing time / 01:40am, Los Angeles time / 4:40am, New York time

(Session is 30mns long)

Senn Chemicals will explore how the industry can adopt sustainable manufacturing methods to bypass the use of TFA, facilitating the development of environmentally friendly and TFA-free cosmetic products.

MORE INFO AND REGISTER FOR THIS WEBINAR

FROM CONCEPT TO COLLABORATION: INFUSING INNOVATION INTO FORMULATION TEAMS (COVALO)

(Tuesday 12 December)
10:30am, London time / 11:30am, Paris time / 12:30pm, Warsaw time / 18:30, Beijing time / 02:30am, Los Angeles time / 5:30am, New York time

(Session is 30mns long)

This session will be 100% practical and can be actioned immediately. Navigating innovation & ingredient trends, filtered to your needs creating your personal library of star ingredients and new concepts sharing ideas and collaborating with your team.

MORE INFO AND REGISTER FOR THIS WEBINAR

MEET CONSUMER TRENDS WITH LAB-GROWN POWERHOUSE ACTIVE ECTOIN (BITOP AG)

(Tuesday 12 December)
13:50, London time / 14:50, Paris time / 15:50, Warsaw time / 21:50, Beijing time / 05:50am, Los Angeles time / 8:50am, New York time

(Session is 30mns long)

Bitop AG will provide an overview of current anti-ageing consumer trends and explain how the multifunctional lab-grown active Ectoin® natural can help you to formulate highly effective, “clean-beauty” formulations, meeting the latest market trends.

MORE INFO AND REGISTER FOR THIS WEBINAR 

Please note that, should the above timings not suit you, all sessions will be available on demand from 13 December onwards.

by: PnP Biopharm

For a long time, people desired to prolong their youth, and this desire increases over time as human life expectancy increases. That is why the demand for anti-aging products in the cosmetic industry is always high and numerous products have been constantly developed and upgraded.

Then what exactly is aging and why does this occur?

In the human body, there are about 200 different types of cells and each cell is specialized to perform a particular function. Aging occurs when more cells lose their ability to divide than the cells actively proliferate because this leads to an overall decrease in cell number and activity. One of the good examples of this aging process is wrinkle formation. A fibroblast is a type of cell that produces collagen and elastin, the components that are important for skin elasticity. As skin ages, fibroblasts decrease in number so less collagen and elastin are produced, this leads to a wrinkle formation. Another common aging sign is hair greying, which is also caused by decreasing melanocytes and melanin production. From these examples, it is understandable that it is important to keep cells actively dividing and functioning to delay aging. Surprisingly, there are already substances in the body that stimulate cells to divide – growth factors.

Growth Factors are proteins that act as chemical messengers between cells and play a role in cell proliferation and tissue regeneration. Due to their intrinsic functions, the amount of growth factors is related to aging. For example, skin aging typically starts at the age of 25 and this is also the age when growth factors start to gradually decrease. Therefore, it is important to sustain the level of growth factors to keep a youthful look and condition.

Today, various types of growth factors and their functions are discovered. Most of them are multifunctional as they perform several roles and are effective in various areas. EGF and bFGF are the most commonly used ingredients in the market due to their well-known cellular proliferation and stimulation effect, especially in the skin. PDGF is well-known for its proliferation and migration effect on connective tissue cells and it is also suggested to stimulate hyaluronan production by certain mesenchymal cells. There are growth factors showing remarkable effects in hair care. KGF1 and FGF5s, family members of bFGF, are involved in the regulation of the hair cycle, thus they can help to stimulate the regeneration of hairs. SCF is also suggested with its positive effect for hair greying since SCF is known to mediate melanocyte recruiting and melanin production.

Despite these attractive and proven effects, growth factors have certain limitations such as short half-life, which indicates lack of stability at room temperature and loss of activity after storing in various environments such as high temperature and aqueous condition. This is a serious weakness in the cosmetic industry because high temperatures may be required in the production process and costly refrigerated storage and delivery system may be required to keep their stability. To cope up with this limitation, PnP Biopharm Co., Ltd. has applied its protein engineering platform technology and successfully developed highly stable and long-acting growth factors.

PnP Biopharm was founded with the technology transferred from Dr. Shin, the expert in protein production and engineering field. From his experience, PnP Biopharm was able to develop various protein engineering technologies and Vexpress^® Technology is one of them. It is the world’s first highly efficient and cost-competitive protein expression platform technology to make it possible to simplify complicated protein production processes for time and cost-saving. Another notable technology is Vexteel^® Technology, which is used to develop highly active and thermostable proteins. In the cell proliferation test, the cells with PnP-GFs (Growth Factors) show two- to four-fold higher activity than wild-type GFs, which prove the higher stability of PnP-GFs.

The goal of PnP Biopharm is to make growth factors to be widely applied in various industries such as cosmetics and pharmaceuticals. For the cosmetic field, PnP Biopharm supplies about 25 growth factors and branded cosmetic products (Cellcurin and RUBYSCO) to fulfil people’s desire to keep their youthful and healthy look without age limitation. Also, PnP Biopharm is putting effort to develop growth factors as pharmaceuticals since the highly stable growth factors show remarkable wound healing effects in the treatment of diabetic foot ulcers, burns, etc.

by: Ichimaru Pharcos Co.

In recent years, many people are living with various kinds of stress. In addition, since last year, the spread of COVID-19 has increased, people can’t go on a trip or even have a banquet. Living with masks on, it is difficult for us to talk with friends with a smile. People’s stress has increased more and more. Meanwhile, we have developed a product, HappiClov, with the idea of “I want to bring smiles to many people.”

Usually, clover contains three leaves. The four-leaf clover is said to have become a symbol of good luck due to its rarity. The four-leaf clover is a symbol of happiness. Raw material for Happiclov is the special clover which has four leaves or more (Fig. 1). Such a special clover was found in Tahara City in Japan and used as an item for a local vitalization project. This project is known as “HAPPY FOUR-LEAF CLOVER PROJECT” which will create new tourism resources, and support employment for people with disabilities.

ICHIMARU PHARCOS, supporting this activity, worked on applying the four-leaf clover extract as a cosmetic ingredient and commercialized it as HappiClov. HappiClov is a “happy” cosmetic ingredient that promotes the production of the happy hormone “β-endorphin” from epidermal cells and the production of elastin related to skin elasticity and sagging and can be expected to raise the corners of the mouth and lift the cheeks.

In addition, HappiClov is produced with by-products that would normally be thrown away. Such activities also contribute to the SDGs, which have been attracting attention in recent years.

The elasticity of the skin is provided by the elastic fibers of the dermis, which are mainly composed of elastin. It has been reported that aged fibroblasts produce a decreased level of elastin. Different concentrations (0.5 and 1.0%） of HappiClov were added to adult human skin fibroblasts, and after 72 hours, the medium was collected and the amount of elastin in the medium was measured using the ELISA method. HappiClov showed the effect on skin fibroblasts and promoted elastin production (Fig. 2a).

DANCE (Fibulin-5) is an essential protein for elastic fiber formation, but it is said that it decreases with aging and leads to hardening of the skin and decreased elasticity. Different concentrations (0.5 and 1.0%） of HappiClov were added to adult human skin fibroblasts, and after 72 hours, the cells were collected and the amount of DANCE in the cells was measured using the ELISA method. HappiClov showed the effect on skin fibroblasts and promoted DANCE production (Fig. 2b).

The hormone β-endorphin is a hormone secreted into the brain when people feel happy. It is also called a happy hormone because it leads to a feeling of elation and happiness. It is said that when people smile, happy hormones are secreted, leading to improved immunity and anti-aging. It is secreted not only in the brain but also in the skin and has been reported to be involved in an epidermal turnover. HappiClov stimulates the production of β-endorphin in epidermal cells and brings a smile to the skin in today’s stressful world.

In an in vitro experiment, human epidermal keratinocytes were exposed to different concentrations (0.5 and 1.0%） of HappiClov for 72 hours. After the incubation, β-endorphin was measured in the cultured supernatant by ELISA. It was found that the production of the happy hormone was increased in epidermal cells.

When the corners of the mouth are lowered or the aging line becomes conspicuous due to slack, it greatly changes the youthful appearance and impression. HappiCrov can be expected to make you look brighter, to bring a smile, and to regain youthfulness. A lotion containing 1% HappiClov or a control lotion was applied to the left and right faces, respectively, of 12 females in their 30’s to 50’s twice a day for 4 months. Before and after applying lotion, the corners of　the mouth was measured with Vectra, and the　rate of change of the angle from the horizontal　axis was calculated. At the same time, the　position change of each part of the skin before and after applying lotion was analyzed. The application of HappiClov raised the corners of the mouth and lifted the cheeks.

HappiClov, a COSMOS Approved natural active ingredient from a very special white clover in Japan, mostly having four leaves, has been shown to promote the production of β-endorphins and lift-up effect. Additionally, this product contributes to the SDGs. HappiClov brightens the feelings and makes people smile.

by: Bloomage Biotech

Obtained from multi-fermentation of Tricholoma matsutake and Hericium erinaceum, Bioyouth^TM-EGT contains a high concentration of L-ergothioneine which is a natural antioxidant compound. Mixed EGT with super active HA (M_W<5000Da) and trehalose, we get Bioyouth^TM-EGT Pro. Plenty of in vitro and in vivo tests results prove that EGT and EGT pro can reduce cells apoptosis, scavenge free radicals, reduce UV spots and brown spots, improve fishtail lines, and so on. EGT and EGT Pro have great anti-oxidation and anti-photoaging effects.

What’s EGT?

In 1909, EGT was first isolated by Charles Tanret. EGT has two structural tautomer in the dissolved state (Fig.1). At physiological pH, EGT is mainly present in the form of thione in an aqueous solution, so EGT is a very stable antioxidant at physiological pH ^[1].

EGT is widely distributed in plant and animals. Mammals only get it from the diet, such as mushrooms ^[2]. EGT content in the human body decreases with age. EGT can enter the cells and mitochondria through the transporter OCTN-1, directly scavenging ROS ^[3]. EGT can scavenge free radicals, improve the activity of glutathione reductase and superoxide dismutase ^{[1, 4]}.In July 2017, the European Commission authorized the use of EGT as a novel food ingredient.

How to get EGT?

There’re three production methods for EGT, including chemical synthesis, mushroom extraction, and fungal fermentation. But they all have some limitations.

Bloomage Biotech collected natural Hericium erinaceum and Tricholoma matsutake from the Shangri-La forest, extracted and purified mycelium of the two mushrooms. By regulating mycelium’s growth and metabolism, thus obtained Bioyouth^TM-EGT which also contains β-glucan, amino acids and other active substances. Mixed EGT with super active HA (M_W<5000Da) and trehalose, we get EGT Pro. Cytotoxicity test, skin patch test, and phototoxicity test showed that EGT Pro could be used safely in various cosmetic products.

Excellent anti-oxidation ability

Mitochondria are easier to ROS attack and oxidative damage to DNA ^[5]. Scientists examined the UVA-induced mitochondrial damage in HaCaT cells using Mito-Tracker assay and found that UVA-irradiated cells showed low fluorescence intensity, EGT(500nM) pretreatment could counteract the UVA-induced mitochondrial damage^[6]. (Fig.2)

Superoxide dismutase (SOD) can specifically remove superoxide anion free radicals generated in the biological oxidation process and delay aging. In our study, H₂O₂ inhibits the activity of SOD in human fibroblasts, while 0.45% EGT Pro could increase SOD activity by 23% (Fig.3).

Lipid peroxidation (LPO) is the oxidative degradation of lipids. Malondialdehyde(MDA) is a major by-product of LPO. In our study, H₂O₂ stimulated cellular LPO and produced large amounts of MDA. Compared with the positive control group, 0.45% EGT Pro could reduce MDA content by 44 % (Fig.4).

Apoptosis means that cells suicide because they sense stress or get signals. Another important finding of this study is that UV irradiation increases HaCaT cell apoptosis. 0.1% EGT Pro can reduce the apoptosis rate by 34 % (Fig.5).

In-vivo test

We selected 30 healthy volunteers, applied 0.5% EGT lotion on the right side of the face, and control lotion on the other side of the face. Compared to the control group, EGT Pro can reduce brown spots by 10%, UV spots by 7%, and fishtail lines by 8% after 4 weeks (Fig 6-8).

EGT Pro is a natural and effective antioxidant and anti-aging product fermented from mushrooms. Bloomage Biotech has more than 30 years’ fermentation experience, we will continue to explore the great potential of effective bioactive ingredients to bring beauty, health and happiness to consumers.

References：

[1]IK Cheah, et al. Ergothioneine: antioxidant potential, physiological function and role in disease. Molecular Basis of Disease, 2012.

[2]NJ Dubost, et al. Identification and quantification of ergothioneine in cultivated mushrooms by liquid chromatography-mass spectroscopy. Int J Med Mush, 2006.

[3]D Gruendemann, et al. Discovery of the ergothioneine transporter. Proc Natl Acad, 2005.

[4]KK Dong, et al. A comparison of the relative antioxidant potency of L-ergothioneine and idebenone. J COSMET DERMATOL-US, 2007.

[5]M Ott, et al. Mitochondria, oxidative stress and cell death. Apoptosis, 2007.

[6]H You-Cheng, et al. Dermato-protective properties of ergothioneine through induction of Nrf2/ARE-mediated antioxidant Genes in UVA-irradiated Human keratinocytes. Free Radic Biol Med, 2015.