Sustainability is now a basic expectation in beauty, not a bonus. But when half the shelves show labels like “eco,” “clean,” or “carbon neutral,” the messages get mixed, and consumers become wary of spin.

Greenwashing remains widespread. The past two years saw high-profile exposures and a shift in regulation: France now monitors “carbon neutral” claims, and the EU’s Green Claims Directive has been paused or uncertain, raising standards in some areas and creating confusion in others

What Greenwashing Looks Like

Common tactics to watch for on beauty packaging and product descriptions:

• “Green” and “planet-friendly”
• Recyclable packaging with no reference to how and which components can be recycled
• Refillable packaging (questionable on a lifecycle analysis).
• Claims of “carbon neutral” by just buying carbon credits

A good read is ; Provenance’s overview of beauty cases; some of the highlights are: claims of recyclability that overlook closures, “plastic-free” and claims of “reef safe”

When a brand approaches me with a new sustainable packaging idea or is in urgent need of sustainable packaging, my response is always that there isn’t a perfect solution for packaging; instead, we should focus on the whole process.

Unfortunately, the world – even cities within the same country – do not have uniform recycling systems.

Glass is heavy and costly to ship if made in a foreign country; it usually requires individual wrapping to reduce dust contamination, along with extra layers of cartons to prevent breaking.

Aluminium or metal tubes, even if they are single-layer, consume a significant amount of energy to produce. They get dented very easily during shipping, leading to more waste even before the process starts. Alternative sourced plastics, on the other hand, depend heavily on the recycling infrastructure of each country, which makes recyclability a big question for target markets.

On the other hand, there is much more we can do with the formulation. Biodegradability is something that we really need to be talking about more.

Most of the personal care products are released back to water. All the formulators should be start looking more into this aspect. There is a huge market on the upcycled ingredients now which can be incorporated more to the products.

The scale-up process is another aspect of the formulation that can be highly effective in terms of sustainability. Are we choosing a cold or a hot process? Are there any improvements that can be made to reduce the processing times on a larger scale? Are we scaling up the process with the right equipment?  Eventually, this will even turn back as a profit to the brand, as the minimal processing time means reducing costs

The flip side of the coin is the regulations. France has taken the lead. Since January 1, 2023, advertisers in France can’t claim “carbon neutral,” “zero carbon,” “climate neutral,” “100% offset,” etc., unless they meet strict criteria: a full life-cycle assessment (LCA), proof of actual reductions—not just offsets—and a public disclosure of methods and offsets.

Fines can reach €100,000, scaled according to ad spend—a significant deterrent for beauty brands.

The EU Green Claims Directive – currently on hold – aimed to standardise environmental claims. However, negotiations in June 2025 were paused due to concerns about the burden on small businesses, and the European Commission even hinted at withdrawal unless scope issues are addressed.

Both sides are valid, yes, we need to have regulations, but the endpoint is not too different from the certifications.

So if you have a brand starting today, just choose the packaging that feels right and teach your audience why this was the best option and how they can recycle it but focus on the overall process as well.

Sustainability is not just packaging, it is formulation, it is process, it is storage, it is shipping.

A Quick Red-Flag Checklist for Shoppers

Ask these three questions about any “green” claim:

1. What exactly is being claimed? The whole product, just the packaging, or a single ingredient?
2. Where is the data? Look for LCA summaries, recyclability rates, and end-of-life instructions.
3. Is it verified? Is there an assessment to prove the claims with data?

Provenance — 5 Times Beauty Brands Were Accused of Greenwashing

France — Decree No. 2022-539

EU — Green Claims Directive: proposal overview and June 2025 pause/withdrawal signal.

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As a cosmetic chemist, I’ve spent years working on formulations designed to improve skin from the outside in. There’s a real art and science to crafting creams and serums that deliver hydration, fight ageing, and brighten complexions.

But over the past few years, my journey has extended into the nutraceutical world, the evolving space where beauty and wellness meet through oral supplements. What excites me most is how supplements are no longer seen as optional extras but as a natural, essential extension of any skincare routine.

Why Look Beyond Topicals?

We all know that skin is the body’s largest organ and a complex barrier exposed constantly to sun, pollution, and stress. While topical products do incredible work on the surface layers, they can only influence so far.

Deep down, the dermis, a thick layer full of collagen, elastin, and cells responsible for renewal, relies heavily on nourishment from within. That’s where supplements come in.

Supplements such as collagen peptides, antioxidants like vitamins C and E, omega-3 fatty acids, and botanicals have been shown to support skin structure and function systematically.

For example, collagen peptides taken orally are absorbed primarily as di- and tripeptides containing hydroxyproline, which have been shown in multiple double-blind placebo-controlled trials to significantly increase dermal collagen density by 6-12% over 8 to 12 weeks, correlating with 15-20% improvements in skin elasticity and hydration metrics.^[1][2][3]

The Science Behind It All

What interests me most is how powerfully nutrients can shape skin function and appearance, each ingredient playing a unique biochemical role.

Vitamin C, for example, serves as an essential cofactor for the enzymes that build stable collagen structures, giving skin its firmness and resilience. Studies show that when skin cells have adequate vitamin C, their ability to produce procollagen rises by 30–40%.^[4][5]

Omega-3 fatty acids, especially EPA, take skin support a step further. They help regulate inflammatory pathways inside skin cells, and clinical trials demonstrate that oral EPA supplements can reduce UV-induced redness by roughly 25%, reinforcing their value in skin protection. ^[6][7]

The impact of nutrition goes beyond vitamins and fatty acids. New research on the gut-skin axis reveals certain probiotic strains, such as Lactobacillus rhamnosus, can lower inflammation and strengthen the skin barrier.

Clinical studies have recorded 30–50% fewer lesions in people with mild to moderate acne after supplementing with targeted probiotics. ^[6][7]

The Power of Combined Ingredients

The real advantage comes when supplement formulas bring together antioxidants, peptides, and vital micronutrients. Ingredients like vitamin C, zinc, selenium, and collagen peptides work together to deliver results far beyond what they achieve alone. This synergy means firmer skin, fewer wrinkles, and visible improvements you can measure with leading technologies confirming significant gains in skin strength and smoothness. ^[5][10]

Supplements and Topicals: A Winning Partnership

Topical creams and serums do a great job of protecting and hydrating the very outer layers of skin. But oral supplements penetrate deeper, supplying nutrients where they matter most, in the dermis, which makes up about 90% of your skin’s thickness.

The latest studies show clearly, using both approaches together delivers even greater results, including up to 25% better skin elasticity and improved hydration, compared to either method on its own. ^[2][3][10] When high quality skincare meets science backed supplements, your skin reaches its full potential, appearing firmer, smoother, and visibly healthier.

Evidence and Efficacy

A comprehensive meta-analysis of 40 randomized controlled trials including over 2,000 subjects concluded that consistent use of collagen peptides combined with antioxidants over 8–24 weeks leads to a 15-20% improvement in skin moisture retention and a 20-25% reduction in wrinkle volume.

Safety profiles across these studies were found to be excellent, with no significant adverse events reported.^[9][2]

How Science is Shaping Modern Beauty Supplements

Working in both topical skincare and oral supplement development, I’ve seen first-hand that nutrition and skin health are deeply connected. Clinical research makes it clear: what we consume matters just as much as what we put on our skin.

More people are adding supplements to their daily routines, not because of marketing hype, but because the science adds up. Surveys now show that over half of regular skincare users take oral supplements, aligning their habits with the growing body of evidence.

Chemists are helping to lead this transformation improving stability, boosting absorption, and tailoring ingredients for real results. Advances in peptide technology and antioxidant delivery mean that tomorrow’s supplements go beyond promises they deliver.

At the end of the day, it’s not just about trends; it’s about results that are visible and backed by research. The future of beauty is comprehensive, evidence driven, and starts from within.

Bibliography

1. Proksch, E., Segger, D., Degwert, J., Schunck, M., Zague, V., & Oesser, S. (2014). Oral supplementation of specific collagen peptides has beneficial effects on human skin physiology: a double-blind, placebo-controlled study. Skin Pharmacology and Physiology, 27(1), 47-55. https://doi.org/10.1159/000351376
2. Zague, V., de Freitas, V., da Costa Rosa, M., & Jaeger, R. (2018). Collagen peptides supplementation improves skin hydration, elasticity, and dermal collagen density: A systematic review and meta-analysis. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, 17(5), 836-842. https://doi.org/10.1111/jocd.12515
3. Choi, S. Y., Ko, E. J., Lee, Y. H., & Shin, H. J. (2019). Effects of collagen tripeptide supplement on skin aging: A randomized, double-blind, placebo-controlled study. Nutrients, 11(11), 2823. https://doi.org/10.3390/nu11112823
4. Pullar, J. M., Carr, A. C., & Vissers, M. C. M. (2017). The Roles of Vitamin C in Skin Health. Nutrients, 9(8), 866. https://doi.org/10.3390/nu9080866
5. Boelsma, E., Hendriksen, M. A., Roza, L., & Verhoeven, A. J. (2001). Nutritional skin care: Health effects of micronutrients and fatty acids. The American Journal of Clinical Nutrition, 73(5), 853-864. https://doi.org/10.1093/ajcn/73.5.853S
6. Calder, P. C. (2020). Omega-3 fatty acids and inflammatory processes: From molecules to man. Biochemical Society Transactions, 48(1), 1107-1116. https://doi.org/10.1042/BST20191139
7. Pilkington, S. M., & Watson, R. E. B. (2019). Omega-3 fatty acids and skin health. Nutrition Reviews, 77(12), 889-903. https://doi.org/10.1093/nutrit/nuz053
8. Salem, I., Ramser, A., Isham, N., & Ghannoum, M. A. (2018). The gut microbiome as a major regulator of the gut-skin axis. Frontiers in Microbiology, 9, 1459. https://doi.org/10.3389/fmicb.2018.01459
9. Dréno, B., Araviiskaia, E., Berardesca, E., et al. (2023). Microbiome and skin diseases: A new paradigm for cutaneous care. Clinical, Cosmetic and Investigational Dermatology, 16, 167-184. https://doi.org/10.2147/CCID.S379020
10. Choi, F. D., & Kim, J. (2021). Matrix metalloproteinases in skin aging: Role of antioxidants and peptides in modulating activity. Journal of Investigative Dermatology Symposium Proceedings, 24(2), S92-S98. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.jisp.2021.01.005
11. Smith, K., Lyons, M., & Moore, S. (2025). Consumer attitudes and behaviors regarding beauty supplement use: A cross-national survey. International Journal of Dermatology, 64(6), 935-942. https://doi.org/10.1111/ijd.15874
12. Huang, Y., Ma, Z., & Lin, Z. (2023). Advances in delivery systems for oral peptide nutraceuticals in skin health. Journal of Controlled Release, 345, 318-331. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.jconrel.2022.12.029

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Biotech beauty promises not only cleaner formulas, but smarter ones. Formulas that are designed to speak the same language as the skin.

The skin isn’t a wall. It’s alive, with pores, follicles, and sweat glands. For as long as one can remember, the beauty and personal care industry has focused on what we put on the surface.  T

Today, biotech is shifting the story to what moves through it. Instead of protecting our body from external stressors, the skin barrier is emerging as a living interface, and one that biotechnology chooses to befriend.

A New Language in Skin Communication

The industry is setting its eyes on the next big leap: formulas that in addition to “clean”, are compatible.

Clean beauty focuses on maintaining safety standards by subtraction – reducing synthetics, toxins, and fragrances – while biotech beauty promises safety through translation.

The skin is not silent. The skin’s makeup, including proteins, lipids, and microbes, are always in conversation. They send signals to the body about hydration, stress, and protection.

The challenge lies in the traditional industry, where popular actives often speak the wrong language. Harsh acids often overwhelm the skin barrier, disrupting the microbiome, and triggering irritation.

Small Molecules, Big Promise

At the centre of this biotech shift are small molecules: bioengineered actives that mimic the skin’s natural messengers.

They are able to move seamlessly through the skin barrier. These molecules don’t just sit on the skin; they are recognised and accepted by the skin as an organ.

Unlike heavy botanical extracts or synthetic compounds, small molecules are designed for precision. They are small and light enough to get absorbed, yet stable enough to deliver targeted messages to cells.

This means fewer side effects, less risk of inflammation and greater reliability. A peptide can send a collagen-boosting signal without inflaming the barrier, and a probiotic can maintain pH balance without affecting the ecosystem.

By copying the body’s natural messengers, small molecules are becoming the most efficient translators between formulation and skin.

Big Brands Betting on Biotech

A popular biotech skincare ingredient is one that we have all heard of: ceramides. Lab-engineered ceramides are identical to those naturally found in skin, but this version also repairs the barrier with irritation-free precision.

Another ingredient is hyaluronic acid, which now uses biotech to create smaller molecular weights that allow for deeper hydration without the inflammatory side effects sometimes seen with bulkier chains.

These aren’t abstract ideas. Big brands are betting on the future of biotechnology: CeraVe’s ceramide-rich range has earned global trust on the skin-identical promise, while brands like The Ordinary and SkinCeuticals have created a cult following on their fermented hyaluronic acid, targeted toward plumping and hydration.

It isn’t about adding lab-grown skincare ingredients or fermented skincare actives to formulations; it’s confirming the fact that biotech is booming.

Beyond Clean to Compatible

“Clean” has been the personal care buzzword for over a decade. However, clean does not always mean compatible.

A plant extract can be natural, and yet still irritating. A minimalistic, mono-ingredient formula can be paraben-free, and yet destabilizing the microbiome.

Compatibility is a higher bar to meet. It means designing formulas for skin tolerance, long-term resilience, and minimal inflammation to the skin’s ecosystem.

And this is exactly where biotech skincare sets itself apart. By engineering molecules in consistent and controlled lab environments, active ingredients can be standardized for purity, as well as predictability.

For brands, as well as consumers, this shift reframes the conversation. The question is no longer “Is it clean?” but “Will the skin recognize and accept it?”

The Future Skin Code 

The takeaway is simple: the industry no longer runs on what’s clean. It’s about what’s in sync.

Skin compatibility is becoming the new credibility, and will soon be a vital part of the industry’s R&D protocol.

In a marketplace crowded with “free-from” claims, biotech offers something more than sustainable skincare: actives that harmonize with the skin’s own code.

Small molecules are not just an innovative upgrade; their story confirms a shift in philosophy. Instead of forcing the skin to adapt to a product, biotech is teaching products to adapt to the skin.

In unlocking the skin’s inner code, biotech is proving once again that the skin-first approach is here to soar.

Sanjana Balin will be presenting on The Southeast Asian Shift: Trends in Botanicals and Beauty Science at in-cosmetics Asia in Bangkok on 4 November. Check the session and register for free entry. 

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The connection between stress and skin health involves disrupting the skin’s barrier function, which can lead to increased sensitivity. It affects the microbiome, which triggers inflammation that can exacerbate various skin conditions, such as acne, eczema, and psoriasis. Furthermore, chronic stress accelerates the aging process.

Historically, the beauty industry focused on external appearances. However, in recent years, there has been a shift toward viewing beauty as an integral part of overall health and well-being. As a result, the industry is now looking to wellness, especially stress-related skin issues.

The wellness trend has affected the cosmetic industry not just with holistic claims but also by creating a new avenue to prove the neurocosmetic effects of the active ingredients.

These new ingredients are crafted to interact between the nervous system and the skin. Their efficacy has been demonstrated through advanced biochemical assays and in-vivo clinical studies, providing a scientific foundation for their use. This scientific backing allows the industry to understand more how the textures and feelings actually work together.

Let’s delve into some of the unique activities that have been released in this space and their unique testing methods.

New ingredient innovation is addressing this not just with “calming” claims but by demonstrating measurable effects on clinical trials. Let’s have a look at some examples and creative way of clinical trials they have done for the proof.

Lubrizol – Oxylance

• What it is: A botanical extract from Ligustrum lucidum.
• Mechanism: Inspired by Tibetan populations thriving in low-oxygen environments, Oxylance mimics this adaptation by upregulating HIF-1α and downregulating HIF-2α, improving oxygenation in skin cells.
• Testing methodology:

◦ In vivo: 84 women tested a mist with 2% Oxylance versus placebo over 28 days. A third control group did a yoga session without product.

◦ Measurements: Oxy-hemoglobin levels (skin oxygen), skin glow via high-resolution photography, wrinkle depth via 3D microtopography, and emotional wellbeing using facial recognition software.

• Results: Comparable improvement to yoga—better skin oxygen, glow, reduced wrinkles (up to 68% reduction in crow’s feet), and increased feelings of happiness.

Seppic – Sepibliss Feel

• What it is: A coriander seed oil extract , marketed as “the feel-good soothing ingredient.”
• Mechanism: Protects “happiness molecules” like oxytocin and β-endorphins, while reducing nitric oxide linked to oxidative stress.
• Testing methodology:

◦ In vitro: Demonstrated +34% β-endorphin production, +11% oxytocin release, and +81% neuronal extension in stressed skin cell models.

◦ In vivo: Double-blind study with 62 volunteers (ages 22–55, sensitive/dry skin). Applied twice daily for 28 days. Self-reported wellbeing and emotional comfort analysed by neuroscientists.

• Results: Volunteers using Sepibliss reported significantly more positive emotional descriptors (comfort, nourishing, soothing) than placebo. Self-evaluation confirmed higher wellbeing.

Vytrus Biotech – Kannabia Sense

• What it is: A sativa seed extract ,designed to act on the skin–microbiome–brain axis.
• Mechanism: Stimulates oxytocin release in keratinocytes via microbiome modulation, enhancing both skin and emotional wellbeing.
• Testing methodology:

◦ Sensory evaluation: Volunteers reported stronger “connection and balance” sensations versus control formulations.

• Results: Positioned as a “microbiome–oxytocin enhancer,” linking skincare directly to social and emotional wellness.

What surprises me is the method of testing these ingredients that has been used for proof. Each of them is unique in the way it demonstrates its efficacy.

It is great to see new testing methods being developed. This is such a new area, and I am sure we will see much ground-breaking information in this specific field, as ultimately we are all serving an industry focused on helping people feel better in their skin.

The diversity and collaboration within the cosmetic industry are truly unique. I would love to see more collaboration, especially with neuroscientists working more closely with cosmetic chemists to develop innovative formulations that genuinely target the mind–body connection.

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Since this is such a big but important topic, it has been split into two parts. The first instalment focused on the pros and cons of AI when it came to ingredient research and inputs.

This instalment will take a closer look at the cons of AI when it comes to cosmetic formulation, the misguided information about cosmetic ingredient safety, as well as the best opportunities for AI to help cosmetic chemists maximise efficiency and efficacy of lab samples.

AI con: it cannot be relied upon for cosmetic ingredient safety information.

AI currently works by finding the most common responses to any given topic using the search terms input by the user. This means it is impacted greatly by the search terms used, and the most common responses – not necessarily the most correct.

It is unfortunate that for far too long the cosmetics industry has been influenced by the statements made when marketing the ingredients of a cosmetic product – both well intentioned and purposely misguided. This means that researching the safety of cosmetic ingredients using AI is currently not very reliable at all.

For example, for the search question*: ‘how safe are parabens in cosmetics?’ the results incorrectly listed this information:

• Parabens are potentially unsafe in cosmetic products because of absorption and their impact on estrogen production and endocrine disruption.
• Long-term exposure to multiple paraben sources from cosmetics can accumulate in the body to potentially toxic levels.
• Skin irritation and allergic reactions are likely.

These above statements are not scientifically correct based on the input and exposure (even from multiple sources) of parabens from cosmetic products; but it does show how a large body of misinformation can bias AI’s search results.

The result continued with at least some correct information, when it quoted the regulatory sources (which has been based on intense scientific scrutiny and research):

• FDA and EU regulators consider parabens safe to use in cosmetic products within the permitted levels.

But then it went on with still more incorrect information, again obviously obtained from the majority of current internet information, although inaccurate:

• Suitable alternatives to using parabens include preservatives such as vitamin E, grapefruit seed extract or rosemary extract. (Author note: vitamin E and rosemary extract are antioxidants, not preservatives; and the efficacy of grapefruit seed extract is not suitable to replace a paraben as a preservative).

The results did not at any point identify just how many chemical substances are covered by the term ‘parabens’, nor which are currently permitted in cosmetic formulas and which are prohibited for safety reasons.

This example shows just how unreliable AI can be when trying to use it to obtain meaningful safety information about cosmetic ingredients, and the inaccuracy of AI for some ingredient research purposes in general.

Other cons of AI…

Here are some other cons of AI for cosmetic formulators based on its current abilities, summarised briefly:

• AI cannot predict the likely outcome of combinations of multiple cosmetic ingredients the way that a cosmetic formulator can learn from experience.
• AI cannot be used to tell the personal preferences of a specific target market, particularly when it comes to the true sensory experience of a combination of cosmetic ingredients as they appear in a multi-ingredient cosmetic formula.
• AI can be manipulated or at the very least impacted by common statements to spread misinformation about cosmetic ingredients (the above safety example shows this all too well!)

Opportunities where AI for formulators could really be put to good use.

While AI for cosmetic formulators currently has significant limitations, suitably designed AI systems could be used to increase efficiency of developments and predictions in the following areas:

• Colour matching by cosmetic formulators can take a lot of time and relies on the experience of the chemist. A suitably designed AI system could hasten this process significantly, however the specific ratios of colours used always depends on the base formula and grade of colourant used – so any AI system designed to aid with colour matching will need to be adaptable to individual base formulas and selected colourants.
• There are various SPF calculators out there already, but all have limitations – usually supplier specific. SPF calculations also rely heavily on the type of base formula created, for example if it is oil based, w/o, o/w or gel based. It can also be impacted by the use of known SPF boosters. If programmed to address these current limitations, specially created AI could greatly help improve the calculations of SPF predictions and inputs to save time. Samples would still need to be created and tested properly, however, to ensure safe consumer use and regulatory compliance.
• Data from early stability results could be used in specially created AI programs to extrapolate results with greater reliability for earlier market entry of new product concepts with appropriate shelf-life justification.

Current ways of manually conducting the above activities could be dramatically hastened with the use of AI, but that AI would have to take into consideration the individual nuances of specific ingredient combinations and formulation bases before its results could be applied in a majority (if not all) cosmetic formulation situations.

Another area for opportunity for AI would be if it were able to create multiple variations of samples based on minor adjustments of ingredients to speed up lab-based sample development. Imagine if a machine could make 5 versions with minor tweaks of viscosity and sensory modifiers at the same time – saving countless hours that would otherwise be needed at the bench to provide multiple variants of a formula for consumer evaluation.

Imagine if AI could…

Now this is one thing I get really exited about – how it can be achieved with true accuracy and reliability I am not sure, but imagine this if you will: what if there was an ingredient database created – and constantly updated by reliable sources – that provided regulatory limits, compatibilities to be considered, accurate safety information and formulation inputs?

While a qualified cosmetic chemist would still need to apply the information to suit specific ingredient and formulation considerations, such a database – where proven beyond doubt to be reliable – could save a lot of time in compiling and conducting essential preliminary safety, regulatory and compatibility checks. Further time would be saved by knowing it is 100% reliable and up to date. Currently, even the best attempts at capturing this information is subject to further checks by those with knowledge in these areas… but what if such a system existed that we could just type in a CAS number and get results we are certain about?

So yes, there has been plenty of talk about how AI is limited at this point in time; but I hope for a future time where we will see more of the opportunities harnessed and brought to market to assist cosmetic chemists in a useful and reliable way.

Happy formulating!  

* Note: if you run similar AI checks of questions your results may vary depending on your search engine and location.

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BROWSE SHOWSThe post AI for formulators part 2: the cons and opportunities first appeared on in-cosmetics Connect.]]> https://connect.in-cosmetics.com/ingredients-formulation/ai-for-formulators-part-2-the-cons-and-opportunities/feed/ 0 23594 https://connect.in-cosmetics.com/ingredients-formulation/ai-for-formulators-part-1-the-pros-and-cons-of-ai/ https://connect.in-cosmetics.com/ingredients-formulation/ai-for-formulators-part-1-the-pros-and-cons-of-ai/#respond Thu, 04 Sep 2025 15:02:53 +0000 https://connect.in-cosmetics.com/?p=23584 With so many industries now utilizing Artificial Intelligence (AI), where does its place lie in the realm of cosmetic formulation? What are the pros and cons of AI for cosmetic formulators? Equally important: what are the cons of AI that can possibly impact the future growth and innovation of cosmetic formulation, and where do the […]