Stress has become one of the most significant and defining health challenges of our time, impacting millions of people worldwide. It affects not only mental well-being but also shows up as physical fatigue and skin issues.

The connection between stress and skin health involves disrupting the skin’s barrier function, which can lead to increased sensitivity. It affects the microbiome, which triggers inflammation that can exacerbate various skin conditions, such as acne, eczema, and psoriasis. Furthermore, chronic stress accelerates the aging process.

Historically, the beauty industry focused on external appearances. However, in recent years, there has been a shift toward viewing beauty as an integral part of overall health and well-being. As a result, the industry is now looking to wellness, especially stress-related skin issues.

The wellness trend has affected the cosmetic industry not just with holistic claims but also by creating a new avenue to prove the neurocosmetic effects of the active ingredients.

These new ingredients are crafted to interact between the nervous system and the skin. Their efficacy has been demonstrated through advanced biochemical assays and in-vivo clinical studies, providing a scientific foundation for their use. This scientific backing allows the industry to understand more how the textures and feelings actually work together.

Let’s delve into some of the unique activities that have been released in this space and their unique testing methods.

New ingredient innovation is addressing this not just with “calming” claims but by demonstrating measurable effects on clinical trials. Let’s have a look at some examples and creative way of clinical trials they have done for the proof.

Lubrizol – Oxylance

• What it is: A botanical extract from Ligustrum lucidum.
• Mechanism: Inspired by Tibetan populations thriving in low-oxygen environments, Oxylance mimics this adaptation by upregulating HIF-1α and downregulating HIF-2α, improving oxygenation in skin cells.
• Testing methodology:

◦ In vivo: 84 women tested a mist with 2% Oxylance versus placebo over 28 days. A third control group did a yoga session without product.

◦ Measurements: Oxy-hemoglobin levels (skin oxygen), skin glow via high-resolution photography, wrinkle depth via 3D microtopography, and emotional wellbeing using facial recognition software.

• Results: Comparable improvement to yoga—better skin oxygen, glow, reduced wrinkles (up to 68% reduction in crow’s feet), and increased feelings of happiness.

Seppic – Sepibliss Feel

• What it is: A coriander seed oil extract , marketed as “the feel-good soothing ingredient.”
• Mechanism: Protects “happiness molecules” like oxytocin and β-endorphins, while reducing nitric oxide linked to oxidative stress.
• Testing methodology:

◦ In vitro: Demonstrated +34% β-endorphin production, +11% oxytocin release, and +81% neuronal extension in stressed skin cell models.

◦ In vivo: Double-blind study with 62 volunteers (ages 22–55, sensitive/dry skin). Applied twice daily for 28 days. Self-reported wellbeing and emotional comfort analysed by neuroscientists.

• Results: Volunteers using Sepibliss reported significantly more positive emotional descriptors (comfort, nourishing, soothing) than placebo. Self-evaluation confirmed higher wellbeing.

Vytrus Biotech – Kannabia Sense

• What it is: A sativa seed extract ,designed to act on the skin–microbiome–brain axis.
• Mechanism: Stimulates oxytocin release in keratinocytes via microbiome modulation, enhancing both skin and emotional wellbeing.
• Testing methodology:

◦ Sensory evaluation: Volunteers reported stronger “connection and balance” sensations versus control formulations.

• Results: Positioned as a “microbiome–oxytocin enhancer,” linking skincare directly to social and emotional wellness.

What surprises me is the method of testing these ingredients that has been used for proof. Each of them is unique in the way it demonstrates its efficacy.

It is great to see new testing methods being developed. This is such a new area, and I am sure we will see much ground-breaking information in this specific field, as ultimately we are all serving an industry focused on helping people feel better in their skin.

The diversity and collaboration within the cosmetic industry are truly unique. I would love to see more collaboration, especially with neuroscientists working more closely with cosmetic chemists to develop innovative formulations that genuinely target the mind–body connection.

Feeling inspired?

Then why not visit one of the in-cosmetics events around the world?

BROWSE SHOWS

Our microbiome is a complex system of millions of microorganisms that has only relatively recently been addressed by cosmetic formulations and skincare products.

As knowledge of the microbiome grows so too does the choice of actives to support a healthy microbiome, and therefore, healthy skin.

This blog will look at some of the more recent active ingredient launches to support a healthy microbiome and the latest cosmetic advances in this sector.

Prebiotics vs probiotics as skincare ingredients

Before we look at the latest launches in microbiome materials, it is important that you understand a little about microbiome cosmetic ingredients. There are two classes:

• Prebiotics: this class of cosmetic material feeds and nurtures beneficial bacteria for the skin. You will normally recognise if a cosmetic ingredient because it will have an INCI name with inulin or ferment. Watch how to formulate a prebiotic skin yoghurt.

• Probiotics: in cosmetics, probiotics are fragments of good bacteria in a suitable carrier solvent for stability purposes. You will normally recognise these cosmetic ingredients with an INCI using the term lysate. Watch how to formulate a probiotic cream for skin renewal.

We can now also find certain actives that have neither a prebiotic or probiotic component, yet influence the microbiome in a positive way.

How microbiome ingredients work in cosmetics

When microbiome ingredients were first launched in cosmetics, the approach was relatively simple: they were either feeding the microbiome to promote growth of the beneficial bacteria (prebiotics); or interacting with receptors on skin cells to stimulate the desired activity within the epidermis (probiotics).

If you are concerned about lysates being fragments of bacteria compared to live cell cultures, it is important to note that while live probiotics are effective in food, lysates have significant clinical efficacy to prove their beneficial results even though they are not technically living. This also helps cosmetic chemists overcome the issues of trying to keep bacteria alive in cosmetic formulas – it is impractical! Since the lysate form of selected bacteria is more than effective to elicit desirable visible results, and is much easier to stabilise long term, it is the chosen form in skincare and hair care formulations.

Finally, there are new classes of active ingredients that impact the microbiome through their action, rather than being a true prebiotic or probiotic.

Innovative microbiome cosmetic ingredient launches

These cosmetic actives have been chosen because of their innovative impact on the microbiome backed by great scientific data.

• Quora Noni (Vytrus Biotech): this very clever cosmetic active uses the stem cells of the Noni fruit to block microbial communication, known as ‘quorum sensing’. Since plants have developed their own defence mechanisms against bad bacteria, it makes sense to harness this activity to use in skincare. This active has a balancing effect on the microbiome, with particular applications for oily, acne prone skin and to help regulate sebum production. It is also ideal to use on the scalp to treat oily scalp and hair as well as dandruff caused by microbiome imbalance.

• Kannabia Sense (Vytrus Biotech): a pre-biotic material that uses cannabis stem cells to stimulate the microbiome of the skin to produce positive neurochemicals that then communicate with the brain and skin. This material is particularly innovative because of its use of stem cells and neurocosmetics and psychodermatology to feed the microbiota to improve the appearance of the skin. One of the great things about this material is there is no CBD so that it doesn’t have regulatory restrictions, yet has clinical evidence to show is wrinkle smoothing and hydrating efficacy to make the skin glow.

• Genencare XL (IFF): this is an exciting ingredient because it is upcycled from the by-products of paper production. It is therefore a sustainable prebiotic that stimulates lactate production by S. epidermis whilst maintaining skin hydration and strengthening the skin barrier.

• WKPep BRP3 (Shenzhen Winkey Technology Co): innovative because it uses peptide technology to balance the microbiome and improve the skins’ physical and immune barrier. A blend of acetyl heptapeptide-4 and acetyl tetrapeptide-2, it has been clinically proven to reduce inflammation and inflammatory ageing, whilst boosting the skin barrier to reduce trans-epidermal water loss for more hydrated and supple skin. It is particularly suited to reduce irritation of sensitive skin types and stimulate skin repair.

We are also seeing control of body odour using microbiome balance for a new range of deodorant products. Actives with deodorant activities by balancing the microbiome of the underarm include Dermosoft Decalact Deo MB (Evonik), usNeo (Lipoid Kosmetik) and Deobiome Noni (Vytrus Biotech).

Suppliers at the front of innovation

Your suppliers are always happy to speak with you about their latest innovations. Ask them about trending microbiome materials incorporating stem cells, peptides, psychodermatology and sustainability as well as body care to make sure you are using the latest innovative ingredients with fantastic product stories beyond the standard pre- and pro-biotic products currently available.

Formulate big results from the tiny organisms living within the microbiome of the skin.

Happy formulating!

Feeling inspired?

Then why not visit one of the in-cosmetics events around the world?

BROWSE SHOWS

by: Ashland

who has something new to tell? we do.

Ashland’s line of gentle deo actives is growing. The latest product, sensidin pure skin multifunctional provides powerful and fast efficacy against odor-causing bacteria at very low use concentrations while respecting the individual microbiome.

the thing with body odor

Sweating is a natural process in the human body. The evaporation of sweat is an important mechanism for temperature control and essential for survival. Sweat itself is odorless, and body odor arises only when sweat is decomposed by microorganisms. These gram-positive bacteria form substances from the sweat content which have an unpleasant odor.

Of course, body odor is not harmful to health, but it can be very uncomfortable and sometimes can even cause embarrassment, especially in today’s fast-moving world, in which the demand for hygiene plays an increasingly important role. Deodorant users can feel insecure with an ineffective deodorant. As it might be a very big emotional burden for one or the other, a reliable high-effective solution is needed.

the contemporary solution

With sensidin pure skin multifunctional Ashland offers the desired solution to encounter antimicrobial challenges on the skin – consisting of Octenidine HCl, an active ingredient with outstanding antimicrobial properties and the well-accepted natural solvent and humectant, 1,3-Propanediol.

“The combination of active ingredients represents a contemporary deo solution in a category of goods that continues to grow,” said Karin Stoffels, head of product development microbial protection, Ashland. sensidin pure skin multifunctional takes deodorant protection to a new level.  Its very strong and fast-acting efficacy has been proven within a germ count reduction test. sensidin pure skin multifunctional has been tested in comparison to other deo actives such as Triclosan and Triethyl Citrate in a clear deodorant pump spray. The results show the remarkable fast efficacy of only 0.03% sensidin pure skin multifunctional within the first minute against odor-causing bacteria as well as the yeast Malassezia furfur within 10 minutes.

Therefore, sensidin pure skin multifunctional acts even before body odor develops since it inhibits the growth and multiplication of odor-causing bacteria on the skin very quickly.

In order to determine the odor-inhibiting effect and to evaluate the efficacy of sensidin pure skin multifunctional in underarm deodorants under practical conditions, a sniff test was conducted. In this regard, the efficacy of sensidin pure skin multifunctional was also compared to triclosan as a benchmark.

The evaluation was carried out by an indirect olfactory assessment of pads in the volunteers’ armpits. Both products lead to a significant odor reduction after 48 hours compared to the initial values. Although sensidin pure skin multifunctional has been used in much lower use levels of actives there haven’t been significant differences between 0.15% sensidin pure skin multifunctional and 0.3% Triclosan. The sniff test proves a quantitatively similar odor-inhibiting effect of both test products. Therefore, sensidin pure skin multifunctional does not only act very strong and fast against odor-causing bacteria but also provides long-lasting and reliable deodorant protection for 48 hours as demonstrated within the sniff test.

Furthermore, the topic of microbiome gets increasingly important to consumers. Not only, because the microbiome is believed to play an important role in skin health, but especially since the understanding today is that the skin microbiome, immune system, and skin barrier are closely linked to each other and should be treated with care.

Personal care products can support healthy skin and the microorganisms living on our skin. Ashland sees it as its responsibility to protect the skin microbiome. Therefore, Ashland develops and tests its products with the utmost care.

In this regard, a third-party study investigated the influence of sensidin pure skin multifunctional in a deodorant on the healthy microbiome in the axilla under practical conditions. The objective of this study was to assess the sustainability of the microbiome after the application of a deodorant roll-on containing 0.15% sensidin pure. Here, the taxonomic composition of the samples was determined before the application (baseline) and after 48 hours for both test areas. The graphs show the results of the taxonomic rank genus.

The study result showed that no differences were found at baseline between both areas, which means that the microbiome was comparable before application – even after 48 hours. Thus, as proven sensidin pure skin multifunctional has no impact on the healthy skin microbiome. In addition, the test subjects have stated that they perceive the tested product as being gentle to the skin while leaving a pleasant skin feeling and not burning on the skin as well.

Want to stay in the know when it comes to cosmetic ingredients? Delve into our bi-weekly round-up of the latest ingredients news and what that might mean for the industry.

Biprocol platforms sustainable skin care ingredients & anti-ageing cream

Colombia- and UK-based life sciences company Bioprocol is currently platforming several ingredients derived from laboratory processes that deliver natural substances that protect biodiversity and ecosystems.

Its patented technology is supported by the UK government’s Department for International Trade, while the company is also gaining further international leverage from its membership of the prestigious Global Entrepreneur Programme.

Its technology platform is designed to provide state of the art ingredients to replace synthetic and oil-derived materials, providing more sustainable, inspired by nature solutions for the beauty and personal care industry.

In creating this platform, the development team at Bioprocol say that it has created the next generation of extraction technology to obtain pure saponin compounds that can be used in formulation for a broad spectrum of applications.

After years in development, the company has distilled the essence of the Love Apple and Wild Lulo to create two powerful ingredients that are specifically targeted at skin care applications, both of which are registered as INCI by the Personal Care Products Council, in Washington DC, USA.

The first of those ingredients is Solanum Complex, which, according to the team’s clinical trials, can help regenerate skin that has been damaged by UV radiation, pollution, extreme weather and free radicals.

The other ingredient is Sopex, which is also rich in saponins and has multifunctional properties that can trigger anti-ageing and a number of other skin nourishing benefits, including skin conditioning. On the multifunctional side, it also has a preservation effect on the formulation.

As well as the ingredients side, the company has also developed a BioRevitalizing Cream, called Idona, with revitalizing, anti-wrinkle, moisturizing and anti-wrinkle claims.

“Attracted to lipids, our natural ingredients both permeate and stimulate the dermal fibroblasts, working with the molecular origins of beautiful skin. Idona moisturizes the skin while helping to repair damaged cells, facilitating cellular regeneration and rejuvenating ageing tissues,” a company spokesperson stated.

Symrise launches scalp microbiome ingredient

Germany-based cosmetic and personal care provider has launched a microbiome skincare ingredient that is being specifically targeted at the scalp care category, called SymReboot19.

Scalp care is a growing niche trend that has prompted an increasing number of diverse product launches, both on the finished goods side and when it comes to ingredient offerings. Crossing the boundary between skincare and haircare, scientific research is increasingly suggesting that good scalp hair leads can lead to a healthier head of hair.

 But the latest launch from Symrise also tackles another growing trend – microbiome skincare. Its research has found that tackling the scalps natural microbiome can also be beneficial for both the scalp and hair. With SymReboot L19, the company has tackled one of the biggest issues with the microbiome trend, which is a lack of data and scientific studies to prove efficacy.

Symrise has met this problem head-on through studies that have produced comprehensive data to demonstrate its probiotic ingredient is effective in enhancing the scalp’s microbiome. The company says that the data demonstrates how the new ingredient can be used to target a host of skin scalp problems, including sensitivity, itchiness, and dandruff, which also enhances the hair’s health.

Study points to endocrine disruption from cosmetic ingredients

Researchers in Spain say that a study they have carried out suggests that a number of cosmetic ingredients could lead to endometriosis caused by paraben and benzophenone derivatives found in beauty and personal care products.

The study, which was carried out by researchers from the University of Granada, found a link with an increase in some derivatives of these substances in urine samples, establishing that the incidence of the ingredients correlated to the amount found in the products.  The research used laparoscopy to detect the presence of a variety of chemicals, including a range of benzophenone derivatives (BP-1, BP-3 and benzophone-1) as well as butyl-parabens, while information was concurrently gathered about use of the beauty and personal care products.

Endometriosis is characterized by the formation of tissue outside the uterine cavity that can be affected by hormonal changes during the menstrual cycle. It is a debilitating disease that is said to affect up to one in ten women of child-bearing age and can impact fertility.

The case-controlled study comprised a sample of 124 women, which consisted of 35 actual cases and 89 that were used as controls. The testing was also used to determine whether or not any individual was suffering from endometriosis. The results determined that the frequency of use of these products was directly connected to the levels of benzophenones and parabens found in the urine samples. The researchers also noted that the risk of endometriosis increased in women if exposure to these substances was prolonged.

It was also noted that oxidative stress results did not modify all the noted associations that were observed during the trials between benzophenone/paraben exposure and endometriosis risk. In conclusion, the researchers noted that there is a strong correlation between beauty and personal care usage and exposure to certain benzophenones and parabens, while the presence of these compounds may increase the risk of endometriosis. The researchers also noted that further studies should be carried out to corroborate the findings.

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From natural collagen to holistic peptides and melatonin. These are some of the topics that were covered during “Educational Week”, a series of webinars brought to you by in-cosmetics Korea. Focusing on the latest local and global trends, scientific advances, and the newest product launches, Educational Week ran from 15 to 19 June.

On Thursday 18 June, the focus was Skin Sensitivity. With environmental pollution and excessive screen time negatively affecting skin conditions, skin sensitivity is a very topical issue. Nikko Chemicals discussed C.L.E.A.N Beauty: Adaptation of Consumer Preferences and Market Context. Then Seppic Asia introduced a soothing dermo-cosmetic active from Centella Asiatica, whereas Seppic Asia profiled personalised beauty prescriptions that provide benefits for new skincare formulations. Finally, Lipotrue dived into the microbiome designed to unlock anti-ageing properties.

On Friday 19 June our attention switched to Natural Skincare. From charcoal to collagen, numerous products that are typically found in food have made their way into personal care products, offering a wide range of health benefits. Givaudan talked about melatonin release for healthier skin, then GlobalData highlighted the importance of health in self isolation. Completing the programme, Lubrizol discussed their innovative green-chemistry based holistic peptide.

Sessions in English and or Korean 

Watch on demand

Forget all that you know about hygiene! The invisible micro-worlds (microbiome, mycobiome, virome) ruled by bacteria, fungi and viruses, that have long been combatted or ignored in the name of hygiene, are now under the spotlight. These micro-ecosystems, living on and inside us, are a flourishing topic on both a scientific and economic level. During the last two years, publications on microbiota have multiplied, as seen in Cultured, I Contain Multitudes, The Human Superorganism or The Dirt Cure. The message is clear: according to these books, people are healthier when in contact with bacteria. Having evolved in perfect symbiosis with humans over centuries, they are said to stimulate genes, regulate the immune system, interact with emotions and even participate in the development of human cognitive capacities.

REVEALING THE BEAUTY OF MICROBIOLOGY

By tapping into the world of bacteria and microbes, contemporary art and design have helped revert the perception that they are dirty and repulsive. With Navel gazing: portraits of the bacteria in our belly buttons, American artist Joana Ricou collaborated with biologists to transform navel microbiomes into art. Presented at the Nonhuman Subjectivities: The Other Selves exhibition in Berlin (2016), her work was a creative way of explaining that each individual microbiome is unique and part of one’s identity. Meanwhile, English bacteriologist Simon Park used cellulose-producing bacteria to print Charles Darwin’s On the Origin of Species! Displayed at the Edinburgh International Science Festival (2016), this project revealed the endless opportunities bacteria offer: from the creation of colors to molecular and genetic engineering. The Biodesign Challenge gave students, from 24 prestigious American art and design schools, the opportunity to explore the applications of biotech in collaboration with bio-experts. At the end of the semester, the best projects were selected and featured at The Future Will Be Grown exhibit at the School of Visual Arts in New York City (June 2017)

THE MICROBIOME: A NEW ECONOMY

On the economic fields, the microbiome is everywhere. Following the Human Microbiome Project (HMP) initiated by the National Institutes of Health in 2008, the White House announced the launch of the Microbiome Initiative in 2016. $500 million have been invested in the study of the bacterial communities that inhabit all living things: intestines, soils, oceans and the atmosphere. These projects are proof that natural micro-biotic technologies are attracting massive investments, for they will unlock promising innovations for health, energy, fashion and design. In the food industry, probiotics and prebiotics are gaining momentum with a fast-growing market of dietary supplements as well as fermented food and beverages (kombucha, kefir, kimchi, Pu’Erh tea…).

THE FUTURE OF MICROBIOME: BUSINESS IMPLICATIONS FOR THE BEAUTY INDUSTRY

Major brands and suppliers now consider the microbiome as a strategic field of exploration for R&D, scientific innovation and future market developments. In this context, the following ideas will be key:

ADOPT A HOLISTIC VISION OF BEAUTY

Taking the living microbiota into consideration supports a “holistic” approach to health and beauty. It envisions care and well-being as part of a larger process both inside and outside of the body: everything is alive and works together! It suggests new holistic rituals combining F&B or supplement regimes with probiotic cosmetic treatments.

HYGIENE MEANS BALANCE

Formulating micro-biotic cosmetics does not mean having to choose between good or bad bacteria. It means creating and stabilizing more balanced microbiome ecosystems, both inside the body and on the skin. Tomorrow’s cosmetic innovations will have to focus on solutions involving probiotic formulas or prebiotic ingredients that foster balanced bacterial ecosystems and apply selective cleansing principles. One could imagine they would help restoring balanced skin affected by repeated treatments and layering rituals in Asia!

COMBINE NATURAL & MICROBIOTIC INGREDIENTS

As ecological concerns continue to rise, natural ingredients with high levels of probiotics (like the Italian vegetable puntarella) and prebiotics (Yacon which is said to have one of the highest concentration of all plants) represent fantastic opportunities. These “green formulas” will also require appropriate natural and sustainable preservatives.

Throughout the Summit, there was huge interest from the delegates in the various sessions presented, and many questions were asked, discussed and answered. In fact, it was the most engaged and interactive Formulation Summit yet, with many delegates contributing their opinions to audience-wide polls throughout the two days through new app Sli.do. Through this medium, delegates were also able to ask questions, resulting in a true debate-style conference.

However, as always with such highly topical industry events, time was limited, and it was not possible for our speakers to respond to everyone. So, since the Summit, we have gathered together as many unanswered questions as we could, and put these to our experts. They have very kindly responded to all relevant questions with as much information as possible. Below are details of the ten sessions that received follow-up questions. To access the Q&As, please click on the relevant title below. We do hope that you find this information useful.

The 2018 in-cosmetics Formulation Summit will take place on the 24th & 25th of October 2018, for further information, please visit www.in-cosmeticssummit.com

Day 1 – BIOTRANSFORMING BEAUTY

Q&A – Alessandro Mendes, Innovation Director, Natura
Bio based cosmetics – Science creating value to sustainable ingredients

Q&A – Prof. Michael Wilson, Professor of Microbiology, University College London
Revealing the skin microbiota

Dr. Lawrence Davies, Senior Microbiologist Perfectus Biomed
Biofilms and their importance in skin ecology

Q&A – Dr. Cécile Clavaud, Research Engineer, Open Research
Keeping scalp microbiota in check

Q&A – Keedon Park, CEO, Incospharm Corporation
Intracellular ‘housekeeping’ – Autophagy the new approach to anti-ageing

Q&A – Kit Wallen-Russell, Director, Pavane Research Centre and Nick Wallen, Co-Creator, JooMoo
A close look at preservatives, prebiotics and probiotics for a healthy microbiome

Day 2 – FORMULATING WITH NATURE

Q&A – Margo Marrone, Co-Founder, The Organic Pharmacy
Using key biotransformed cosmetic ingredients

Q&A – Prof. Ian W. Hamley, Diamond Professor of Physical Chemistry, University of Reading
Peptides/Enzymes to the rescue

Q&A – Mark Dorfman, Biomimicry Chemist, Biomimicry 3.8
Biomimetic strategies leading to greater innovation

Q&A – David Delport, Global Head of Education, REN Clean Skincare
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