Stress has become one of the most significant and defining health challenges of our time, impacting millions of people worldwide. It affects not only mental well-being but also shows up as physical fatigue and skin issues.

The connection between stress and skin health involves disrupting the skin’s barrier function, which can lead to increased sensitivity. It affects the microbiome, which triggers inflammation that can exacerbate various skin conditions, such as acne, eczema, and psoriasis. Furthermore, chronic stress accelerates the aging process.

Historically, the beauty industry focused on external appearances. However, in recent years, there has been a shift toward viewing beauty as an integral part of overall health and well-being. As a result, the industry is now looking to wellness, especially stress-related skin issues.

The wellness trend has affected the cosmetic industry not just with holistic claims but also by creating a new avenue to prove the neurocosmetic effects of the active ingredients.

These new ingredients are crafted to interact between the nervous system and the skin. Their efficacy has been demonstrated through advanced biochemical assays and in-vivo clinical studies, providing a scientific foundation for their use. This scientific backing allows the industry to understand more how the textures and feelings actually work together.

Let’s delve into some of the unique activities that have been released in this space and their unique testing methods.

New ingredient innovation is addressing this not just with “calming” claims but by demonstrating measurable effects on clinical trials. Let’s have a look at some examples and creative way of clinical trials they have done for the proof.

Lubrizol – Oxylance

• What it is: A botanical extract from Ligustrum lucidum.
• Mechanism: Inspired by Tibetan populations thriving in low-oxygen environments, Oxylance mimics this adaptation by upregulating HIF-1α and downregulating HIF-2α, improving oxygenation in skin cells.
• Testing methodology:

◦ In vivo: 84 women tested a mist with 2% Oxylance versus placebo over 28 days. A third control group did a yoga session without product.

◦ Measurements: Oxy-hemoglobin levels (skin oxygen), skin glow via high-resolution photography, wrinkle depth via 3D microtopography, and emotional wellbeing using facial recognition software.

• Results: Comparable improvement to yoga—better skin oxygen, glow, reduced wrinkles (up to 68% reduction in crow’s feet), and increased feelings of happiness.

Seppic – Sepibliss Feel

• What it is: A coriander seed oil extract , marketed as “the feel-good soothing ingredient.”
• Mechanism: Protects “happiness molecules” like oxytocin and β-endorphins, while reducing nitric oxide linked to oxidative stress.
• Testing methodology:

◦ In vitro: Demonstrated +34% β-endorphin production, +11% oxytocin release, and +81% neuronal extension in stressed skin cell models.

◦ In vivo: Double-blind study with 62 volunteers (ages 22–55, sensitive/dry skin). Applied twice daily for 28 days. Self-reported wellbeing and emotional comfort analysed by neuroscientists.

• Results: Volunteers using Sepibliss reported significantly more positive emotional descriptors (comfort, nourishing, soothing) than placebo. Self-evaluation confirmed higher wellbeing.

Vytrus Biotech – Kannabia Sense

• What it is: A sativa seed extract ,designed to act on the skin–microbiome–brain axis.
• Mechanism: Stimulates oxytocin release in keratinocytes via microbiome modulation, enhancing both skin and emotional wellbeing.
• Testing methodology:

◦ Sensory evaluation: Volunteers reported stronger “connection and balance” sensations versus control formulations.

• Results: Positioned as a “microbiome–oxytocin enhancer,” linking skincare directly to social and emotional wellness.

What surprises me is the method of testing these ingredients that has been used for proof. Each of them is unique in the way it demonstrates its efficacy.

It is great to see new testing methods being developed. This is such a new area, and I am sure we will see much ground-breaking information in this specific field, as ultimately we are all serving an industry focused on helping people feel better in their skin.

The diversity and collaboration within the cosmetic industry are truly unique. I would love to see more collaboration, especially with neuroscientists working more closely with cosmetic chemists to develop innovative formulations that genuinely target the mind–body connection.

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Economic reports indicate that the year 2025 will present a stable global economic outlook, but with moderate growth rates. According to the projections of the International Monetary Fund (IMF), global growth will remain at 3.2% by the end of 2024 and will increase slightly to 3.3% in 2025.

However, this stability may be affected by several factors, such as persistent inflation in some countries, trade tensions, geoeconomic fragmentation and the continuity of the wars in Ukraine and Israel. These factors will impact the trends in cosmetics by 2025.

The global cosmetics market has a projected value of US $758 billion by 2025 and a CAGR of 4.6% in the period from 2025 to 2033. Next, I want to share with you some of the projections that I consider most interesting for next year.

The consumer in 2025

The cosmetics trends for 2025 are closely related to technology and innovation. Health-based strategies will be key, as consumers will look for products that are not only effective but also address mental and emotional health.

In addition, the consumer of 2025 is expected to be more aware of the environmental and social impact of their purchasing decisions.

• Ageing population: The proportion of people over 65 years of age will continue to increase. For this reason, well-being and health will continue to be a priority for the main innovations of the cosmetic industry in this segment. The senior consumer is now multichannel and protagonist.
• Artificial Intelligence: AI will continue to transform the way we interact with cosmetic products and services. In 2025 we will see surprising advances in the development of skincare technologies, new molecules and new biochemical mechanisms based on AI. Also new skin diagnostic tools based on algorithms, which will lead to the recommendation of products and devices, all through AI. Virtual beauty advisors will also be key in 2025 because they will help consumers find the perfect product for them, being a key element for brand positioning.
• Robotic Process Automation (RPA): This is a term that will be a trend in 2025. It includes the development of robots that do complex and repetitive jobs, improving operational efficiency, both in R&D of actives, excipients and formulas, as well as in manufacturing activities and industrial production.

We will see a boom in fluid fragrances in perfumery, eliminating gender barriers and celebrating individuality. Thanks to new integrated technologies, we will also see new smart aromas trending that will adjust their intensity and duration according to body temperature, climate, or stress levels.

In 2025 we will see how inclusive beauty reaches new territories, promoting responsible diversity in segments such as the elderly, people with disabilities and special needs and also new concepts for specific cultures that respect and meet the needs of different population segments. Universal accessibility becomes a strong trend for next year through the design of products and services accessible to everyone, regardless of condition. Universal beauty is the new black.

Oral care will also be a trend and is one of the categories that will begin to grow the most. We will see new approaches in holistic care, aesthetics and health. In makeup we will see trending concepts such as Berry Makeup, Moonlite Skin, Vintage Mint, Grunge, Moonlight, Ingenuine Blue and Ultraviolet, among others.

• Advanced Psychographics: Brands will use data that captures not only consumers’ preferences but also their values, beliefs, and lifestyles to tailor their messages to each audience segment extremely precisely.

Pharmetics = Pharma inspiration for cosmetic innovation. In Medicine, we see one of the main trends in precision medicine, which focuses on treating each patient according to their genetic, environmental, and lifestyle profile. This will allow more accurate diagnoses and more effective treatments. Therefore, in 2025, the concepts related to “Precision Cosmetics” will begin to be a trend.

Telemedicine is a concept that allows patients to access high-quality medical services from anywhere, which is especially useful for those who live in remote areas or have difficulty getting around. Telecosmetics is also a concept that will gain relevance in 2025. This will allow interesting benefits for the consumer such as access to beauty experts from anywhere, personalization of treatments and products, reduction of costs and waiting time and greater convenience and flexibility.

Trending for next year we will see a rise in virtual consultations for skin analysis and recommendations, more precise personalization of personal care products, virtual therapies for skin problems, use of augmented reality to simulate treatments and greater integration with artificial intelligence for personalized recommendations.

All this will be possible with new video conferencing platforms, mobile applications, augmented and virtual reality, artificial intelligence and data analysis and machine learning. Telecosmetics is a great opportunity to improve beauty and cosmetic care.

• Real-World Evidence (RWE): This approach relies on clinical data obtained outside of traditional controlled trials. For this reason, companies will begin to innovate in-house clinical effectiveness protocols.
• Stress management: This will motivate purchases, and consumers will look for products and services that include emotional health in their self-care routines.
• Bio-Art: It is the creation of art using living organisms and biological technologies. In 2025 we will also see greater interaction of the cosmetics industry with art platforms and concepts.
• Virtual Impulse Buys: This is the trend of buying products online impulsively. In 2025, cosmetic brands will also carry out responsible purchasing campaigns.
• Luxury Re-commerce: This trend involves buying and selling used or recycled luxury products that will be trendy in 2025, including skincare, makeup, and fragrances.
• Virtual Fitness: The practice of physical exercise in virtual environments. We will see new fragrances and body care concepts that will complement this trend.
• Digital self-care: Applications, tools, and cosmetic products that promote well-being and beauty in the digital world.
• Bio-Hackers: These will consolidate themselves as one of the main target groups of the cosmetics industry, they are consumers who seek to improve their health and performance through technology and biotechnology.
• Virtual intimacy: Advancement of virtual reality and augmented reality in sexual experiences. Cosmetics has a great opportunity for innovation in this category.
• The “back to local”: Refers to the growth of local consumer brands, which are growing 50% more than global brands. This represents a significant change in consumer behaviour, prioritizing local products and services. In this sense, large companies are adapting their offer to the specific demands of each community to connect with consumers.
• Neo-Sensualism: A focus on sensory experience and the pursuit of pleasure through food, art, cosmetic products, music, and other forms of expression.
• Skin bioprinting: It is the creation of artificial skin using 3D printing. We will see very interesting advances in 2025 for both scientific and therapeutic purposes. Subcutaneous implants will also be a trend.

In summary, I think that the innovation drivers for 2025 will be related to artificial intelligence in the R&D process of active ingredients, excipients, and diagnostics, new cosmetic treatments for the effects of stress and improvement of health, the aging of the population, universal inclusion, oral care, pharma-inspired, biohacking, and telecosmetics.

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As we look back on in-cosmetics Global 2024, it allows us to reflect on the biggest trends, learnings, and takeaways from this year’s flagship event in Paris.

Hosting over 12,000 visitors and upwards of 1,000 exhibitors, the show went off without a hitch. With experts and enthusiasts hailing from all sides of the global beauty and personal care industry, coming together to network, connect, and engage in meaningful face-to-face discussions, the event spotlighted some of the biggest innovations and scientific breakthroughs in ingredients to date.

In addition to the numerous product releases, with exhibitors showcasing their latest innovative solutions, the show acted as a valuable platform for learning and engagement. The event’s theatres and conference areas, including the Marketing Trends Theatre, Technical Seminars, and Sustainability Zone Forum were a breeding ground for pioneering discussions around the future of beauty and personal care and beyond.

Home to many of the world’s most iconic make up and cosmetics brands, Paris was an appropriate setting for in-cosmetics Global 2024. Living up to its reputation, developments in the French market were full of originality and innovation, with ingredient manufacturers from the region launching some exciting new products and delving deep into the world of beauty and personal care.

Fostering a sustainable future

With sustainability standing firm as a core pillar of this year’s event, eco-friendly practices were reflected in many of the newly released ingredients in the region.

For example, French producer of natural, active ingredients, Actichem introduced Resvinia, a groundbreaking natural hair care ingredient sourced from upcycled French vine shoots. Efficacy studies have proven that this active can be used in haircare formulations to reduce hair loss, stimulate hair growth, and offer both protection and anti-pollution properties. Meanwhile, the upcycling element of the process has the potential to significantly reduce waste throughout production.

Sustainable methods of ingredient sourcing such as upcycling are becoming increasingly commonplace in markets across the globe. This is especially true in the French market where consumers are demanding a new approach.

According to data from Klarna, 61% of French women reported that they would be prepared to spend more money on environmentally friendly skincare, while 33% believe that respect for sustainability should become mandatory for manufacturers.

This trend was proliferated throughout numerous aspects of the show, with many other exhibitors and visitors demonstrating their commitment to sustainable practices moving forward.

Another organisation from the region which showcased its expertise in this area was the Herbarom Group, a French manufacturer of natural cosmetics that specialises in using natural ingredients and plant extracts. Located in the heart of one of France’s main fruit-growing regions, Herbarom Laboratoirer has easy access to a range of invaluable natural resources.

Supporting this eco-friendly approach, the organisation has recently formed a strategic partnership with ChestNut, a local company specialising in the recovery of raw materials from arboriculture to source flowers. At the show, Herbarom Labratoire released its new upcycled ingredient, Chestnut hydroglycerine extract, obtained from the pericarp of chestnuts intended to be consumed in the form of marrons glacés confectionery.

These notable innovations highlight the growing trend towards sustainable ingredient sourcing, largely driven by a rising consumer demand for environmentally responsible cosmetic products in the French region. Of course, the move towards sustainable practices will require collaborative efforts, improved regulatory support and a continued consumer education.

Well-ageing: a reimagined approach

One of the most progressive themes at this year’s in-cosmetics Global event, was the idea of a reimagined approached to ageing. Where anti-ageing products and practices have previously reigned supreme among beauty brands and consumers, the focus is now beginning to shift as the market embraces a more inclusive view.

French women, known for their embrace of ageing, embody this shift. Their philosophy aligns with Coco Chanel‘s famous quote: “Life shapes the face you have at thirty. But at fifty you get the face you deserve.” In France, ageing gracefully is about self-acceptance and inner beauty, prioritising natural skincare and a balanced approach over aggressive anti-aging measures.

Numerous sessions at the show reflected on the trend that’s commonly being referred to as ‘well-ageing’ or ‘pro-ageing’.

For example, Joonseok Cha, PhD, Research Director at The Garden of Naturalsolution, led a popular technical seminar on ‘Anti-ageing: Top to Bottom’, which focused on the emerging trend of ‘slow and well ageing’ over ‘anti-ageing’ as he noted that teenagers as young as 14-years-old are adopting practices to target wrinkles. Cha shared research findings on a variety of ingredients, underscoring their potential in helping to slow the ageing process, naturally.

Meanwhile, Michele Superchi, Vice President at BEAUTYSTREAMS – a leading insights platform for the global beauty industry – presented a session entitled, ‘Health-Span Beauty: The impact of longevity on our industry’.

Superchi highlighted that the impact of advanced technologies, more effective medicines, and a better understanding of our bodies, have significantly extended the average human life span. In a world that lives longer, Superchi emphasised that youth cannot be the only solution to beauty, suggesting that a more inclusive future beauty industry would acknowledge and celebrate the beautiful moments in every age category.

While there’s no doubt that the anti-ageing therapeutics market in France remains robust – with projections[1] to reach $53 million by 2030 and an expected 15.53% CAGR throughout the forecast period – there’s a shift on the horizon. Many French cosmetics consumers are increasingly embracing the idea of self-acceptance, and as a result, their relationship with different cosmetic products is changing.

Specialist sensory and consumer research and testing organisation, Syres[2], conducted some recent research exploring well-ageing and the key beauty challenges for female French consumers above the age of 55.

When asked about their definition of beauty, respondents most frequently cited the notions of well-being and self-acceptance (62%), mentioning “feeling good about yourself despite the years” and “accepting yourself as you are”.

The results suggest that respondents – women over the age of 55 – predominantly remain positive, serene and feel good about themselves. Despite being much less known in France than in Asia, the research concluded that the well-ageing trend fits perfectly with what women in the region are looking for – namely products that extend the beauty of their skin in a natural way, while taking care of them inside and out.

This evolving mindset is paving the way for a more holistic and inclusive beauty industry, one that prioritises wellbeing and self-acceptance over the elusive pursuit of eternal youth. As the trend gains traction, it signals a significant shift in consumer attitudes and market dynamics, highlighting a future where beauty is celebrated at every stage of life.

in-cosmetics Global 2024 offered insight into some of the most prevalent trends and significant innovations taking hold of the French cosmetics industry to date.

The emphasis on sustainability, with initiatives like upcycling reflects a growing consumer demand for environmentally responsible products.

Additionally, the shift from traditional anti-ageing to the introduction of a more inclusive “well-ageing” approach highlights a broader acceptance of beauty at all life stages. The trends indicate a transformative period in the industry, driven by technological advancements, consumer preferences, and a collective commitment to sustainability and wellbeing. As the French market continues to evolve, it sets a precedent for the global beauty industry, championing innovation and inclusivity in equal measure.

in-cosmetics Global 2025 will take place from 8-10 April 2025 at the RAI Amsterdam Convention Centre in Amsterdam, the Netherlands. For more information and to register interest to attend, visit here.

[1] https://www.insights10.com/report/france-anti-aging-therapeutics-market-analysis/

[2] https://www.syres.com/ds/news/2304/well-aging-survey-of-women-over-55-in-france2c-syngapour/

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The market size of the health and wellness category is impressive. First, the Global Wellness Institute presents an interesting definition: “Wellness is a modern word with ancient roots. The key principles of both preventive and holistic wellness can be traced back to ancient civilizations from the East (India, China) to the West (Greece, Rome). In 19th century Europe and the United States. Holistic and wellness-focused modalities have gained more visibility in recent years. It is understood as the active pursuit of activities, choices and lifestyles that lead to a state of holistic health”. This portal indicates that this category was worth U$ 5243 billion in 2022 and has a projected value of U$ 8945 billion in 2032, with a projected CAGR of 5.5% over this period. Such a market size is known as the “wellness economy”.

On the other hand, reviewing an example, a recent publication by the portal explodingtopics.com indicates that the global meditation market has a projected CAGR of 10.4% in the period from 2019 to 2027 with an estimated value for that date of U$9 trillion. The wellness market in general is presenting great dynamism and therefore we see very interesting innovations and trends in different fields such as mental wellness, physical activity, lifestyle, beauty, health, cosmetics, wellness in workspaces, wellness at home, meditation, wellness tourism and spa industry, among others.

Apps: We are seeing apps that offer themed meditations that increase concentration, decrease stress and help to cope with difficult emotions and moments. These apps are interesting because they include the voices of famous people.

Biofeedback: This is one of the trending concepts in this category. It consists of monitoring and measuring the different reactions of the organism, such as heartbeat, blood pressure, breathing rate, brain activity and eye movements, among others, to define actions that help control stress, emotions, motivation, concentration capacity, therapy follow-up, concentration capacity, provide calm and better sleep experience.

Shinrin Yoku or Forest Bath: This is an oriental concept that is gaining more prominence in all regions and consists of a visit to a forest immersing oneself in it with the five senses, in order to bring health and well-being to people. Statistics indicate that every year between 2.5 and 5 million Japanese people affected by stress, hypertension and anxiety caused by modern life, attend such sessions in certified forest centers, where they can find breathing exercises and guided activities. Before and after the natural therapy session, participants’ blood pressure and other physiological variables are measured to check the effectiveness of the treatment.

A recent publication in the Colombian newspaper eltiempo.com indicates that: “modern cities do not stop growing and living in them is synonymous with adrenaline and stress. Therefore, it is not unusual for people, focused on their daily chores and obligations, to put themselves on autopilot and forget about themselves, their emotions and needs. World Bank figures indicate that 55% of the population lives in cities and by 2050 this number is expected to double. Faced with this maddening and overwhelming panorama, there are different techniques to achieve a change: to return to the origins and get away, at least for a while, from the maelstrom and urbanization”. This technique is said to have the following benefits: it reduces stress, anxiety and depression, improves mood, boosts the immune system and increases creativity and well-being.

Grounding: The objective is to put the feet and hands in direct contact with any natural surface, for example, walking barefoot on grass, earth or sand, hugging and leaning on tree trunks.

Mood-boosting: This is a claim that is trending in the cosmetic and wellness field. We see new technologies, textures, biochemical pathways and scents that help improve mood.

Massage Beauty: This was one of the most interesting topics presented at the last IFSCC world congress in Barcelona. Some authors presented lectures and papers on the anti-aging biochemical pathways that are activated by different massage procedures and how these have different benefits in skincare. This is one of the pathways that will inspire the launch of new technologies and products with massage-like concepts.

Mindfulness: This is a practice that integrates meditation, breathing and concentration. It is increasingly present in relaxation and massage sessions. Due to the current situation that includes post-pandemia, political conflicts, wars, inflation, among others, it is gaining more relevance in cosmetic and beauty products and therapies.

Lifestyle medicine: The Global Wellness Institute presents an interesting definition: “Lifestyle medicine is a rapidly evolving field that aims to promote health and prevent chronic disease by addressing lifestyle factors such as nutrition, physical activity, stress management, sleep and social support”. Cosmetics is an important ally for this trend.

Sound wellness: Different studies have shown how music helps to reduce mental anguish and enhance physical well-being, for example in cancer patients. There is also research on how different types of music help lower cortisol levels in the blood. Artificial Intelligence is helping to create different melodies that help with stress management and meditation. Auditory wellness represents a great opportunity for innovation and music will be an ally for the cosmetics of the future.

Gabriel García Márquez said “there is no medicine that cures what happiness does not cure”. Wellness is presented as an innovation driver for the cosmetics of the future and we have before us the possibility to evolve cosmetics for the benefit of people.

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by: Ashland

Sandalwood has a 4,000-year-old history: the oil was used in religious rituals, and many deities, temples and sacred carvings were crafted from its softwood. It was one of the most common incenses found burning in ancient Hindu and Buddhist temples around India and China and is still used in temples today as it is believed to bring one closer to one’s divine nature. Sandalwood is highly prized for its oil that forms only with the right mix of genetics and environmental factors. The oil is the tree’s defense mechanism against disease and stress which helps explain many of the medicinal properties for which it has been used over the centuries. In addition to its spiritual and medicinal properties, its intensely sweet, soft, woody, and slightly musky aroma made it a prized ingredient for luxury perfumes and cosmetics from ancient India, to Egypt, to China, and to the rest of the world.

The forest therapy trend inspired the development of this new biofunctional. Forest Therapy, under the umbrella of nature or ecotherapy, has existed in Japan since the Forest Agency of Japan promoted Shinrin-yoku (forest bathing) as a practice for healthy living and part of a forest therapy program. The practice of shinrin-yoku is the art and science of how trees can promote health and happiness. Breathing in a forest is a possible mechanism that may induce the health benefits of forest bathing. Forests often deliver large amounts of odorant molecules, identified as “forest VOCs”. These odorant molecules serve several functions including tree defense and communication. Inhaling some forest odorant molecules can result in antioxidant and anti-inflammatory effects, it may be also beneficial to improve cognitive performance by decreasing mental fatigue, increasing relaxation and mood. Forest bathing continues to grow in interest and stature and is now a new trend in the beauty industry.

Santalwood biofunctional is obtained from Santalum album sustainably grown in Australia in a plantation using regenerative agriculture techniques, with rotational re-planting after harvest and water-efficient irrigation techniques. There is full control over the entire supply chain from planting, growing, and harvesting the sandalwood to processing the essential oil by steam distillation without adding any chemicals during the process. Wood chips depleted in oil are used for the extraction of Santalwood biofunctional by supercritical CO2 technology. The oil-soluble extract is then solubilized in a bio-based solvent. Santalwood biofunctional is part of a circular economy model, creating value out of a by-product, with minimal use of natural resources.

Due to its predictive potential, Artificial Intelligence (AI) was used to explore large datasets and to detect concealed patterns, drawing predictions that only the machine can discern. The analytical determination of the extract led to the identification of seventeen key phytocomponents with potential biological activity. Then, network pharmacology analysis was used to predict the potential skin biological activity. Predicted skin biological activities comprised: anti-aging (including senolytic activity, telomere protection, extracellular matrix organization), regulation of inflammation, response to various stresses, skin olfactory receptor modulation, skin barrier homeostasis (epidermal development and regeneration, cell-to-cell junctions), mitochondrial homeostasis, DNA repair, antioxidant defenses, sebum regulation, and hair growth and folliculogenesis. These predicted areas and the related genes constitute a pool of potential biological activities that can be further validated experimentally. The biological evaluations on different skin models highlighted the role of Santalwood biofunctional in increasing the olfactory receptors OR2AT4 for a better protection against environmental air pollution and for healthier aging.

These evaluations also showed the role of Santalwood biofunctional in reducing cell senescence and increasing cell longevity. Clinical studies on skin and scalp of Asian and Caucasian volunteers showed improved skin renewal and hair regeneration, well aging benefits with firmer and smoother skin, less visible fine lines and wrinkles and more radiant and glowing skin. The skin olfactory signature of aging was evaluated by measuring odorant molecules precisely produced by the skin with age. This new evaluation of skin aging revealed that Santalwood biofunctional could reduce the skin olfactory signature of aging.

Santalwood biofunctional is the first biofunctional to be developed by Ashland with Artificial Intelligence (Al) for well aging that helps transform skin’s appearance from dull and lifeless to vibrant and glowing.

For many, the pandemic will leave lasting memories of distinct smells of clinically strong sanitisers and the familiar smell of home. For the unlucky ones that developed symptoms of anosmia – the medical name for loss of smell – the fragrance of the pandemic, or the total lack of, will be remembered in a different way.

Arguably, the events of 2020 affected no beauty sector more than the fragrance and perfume category. At the beginning of the pandemic, vital crops went unharvested as workers were told to stay at home, key alcohol supplies were redistributed for hand sanitisers, and sales of perfumes and fragrances plummeted as people stayed at home, socially distanced and took their shopping online. One report by McKinsey looking at how COVID-19 has changed the world of beauty found that fragrance sales for prestige brands dropped 75% versus the same period in 2019. The sales decline was more significant in fragrance than in any other beauty category.  Conversely, an industry once believed to be impossible to sell online saw an uplift in its digital offering. One beauty e-commerce analysis found that online fragrance sales increased by 45% from 2019 to 2020.

As such, the pandemic has of course presented new opportunities for the fragrance industry. “This new situation also brings with it a new business opportunity, as it has driven the creation of products that are now considered essential, such as hand sanitiser gels and face masks: both items in which perfume can be used,” says Laurent Mercier, CEO of Eurofragrance.

This is just a snapshot of the changes in the fragrance industry since the start of the pandemic. Despite a drop in sales, fragrance became far from obsolete for consumers. Instead, its focus and importance in daily routine shifted. One study by Firmenich across 11 different countries including the UK and France found that 56% of consumers appreciated fragrances more during the lockdowns and 56% also took more comfort in the scents they used. “Fragrance reinforces feelings of safety, calm and happiness for consumers dealing with stressful situations. Our latest consumer research shows that the importance of scent for different populations of consumers is growing and can be leveraged by customers to determine fragrance and category mix” explains Ilaria Resta, President of Global Perfumery at Firmenich.

Fragrance as a tool for wellness

Smell is a powerful tool to evoke memories and influence mood. But for thousands of years scent has also been used in therapeutic ways. “Broadly speaking, what we have discovered during lockdown is there is a very strong message from consumers that scent is an agent of wellness,” says Judith Gross, Vice President of Creation and Design, Branding and Marketing at the IFF, a company that has been conducting consumer research on attitudes to scent since the start of the pandemic.

Jason Lee, founder of the fragrance label, SIX agrees: “Instead of luxury goods, people are channelling their money into things that will make them feel and live better while at home. COVID-19 has forced us to focus on the emotional and psychological, and people now realise fragrance plays an important role in our wellbeing”.

As the concept of wellbeing and good health has now filtered into all categories from food, beauty and body care to the home, it opens up an interesting direction and an abundance of new opportunities for the fragrance industry. “It seems that the act of putting on perfume goes beyond attracting others; it now incorporates this new concept of ‘wellness’ that consumers are asking for,” says Laurent Mercier.

Home is where the smell is

One trend that has accelerated this past year is the beautification of the home – proof that modern beauty is much more than skin deep. With months of monotonous lockdowns and little variation to routines and scenery, consumers have been looking for ways to improve their mental health and wellbeing within the home, including through fragrance. “Each space becomes even more important when you’re spending more time at home, from the living room to the bedroom or the bathroom,” says Julien Gommichon, US President of Diptyque.

Margaux Caron, Global Beauty Analyst at Mintel adds: “Even pre-COVID there was an interest to pair and compliment and emulate personal fragrance with your home fragrance. Integrating into consumer lifestyle needs to be reinvented, and it’s the right time to diversify and reinvent the category”.

Alongside traditional fragrance and perfume sales, once ancillary fragrance offerings such as candles or diffusers are now firmly in the spotlight, keeping many brands afloat.  “While everyone is staying at home, people are stocking up and ordering candles online. Candles provide a sense of comfort and calm during this challenging time” says Julien Provost, Global Creative Director for Cire Trudon. And this is reflected in the numbers; research by NPD found that candle sales grew 17% in comparison to a general category increase of 9% year to date. Elsewhere, Selfridges reported a 54% increase in candle sales since the start of the lockdown, and Net-a-Porter recorded a 130% year-on-year increase from when the first UK lockdown began in March. “These are little luxuries that people are treating themselves to in order to create a cosier, spa-like environment at home,” says Larissa Jensen, VP and Beauty Industry Advisor at NPD.

Many brands have responded to this shifted focus to the home and need for improved wellbeing amid the pandemic. NEOM Organics, for example, launched a campaign called ‘Little Moments of Wellbeing’ in 2020, encouraging its customers to take moments to pause, reset and feel good through its range of fragrant candles, body lotions and oils.

And for those that don’t want to burn candles, at-home technology is coming into play. Just last month, Skin Authority debuted its consumer-facing air filtration device, Air Beautification Filtration & DefenderPro, which was previously only available to professionals within salons and spas. Elsewhere, Canopy also launched a beauty-focused air humidifier at the end of last year. And mere months before the pandemic took its grip, NEST fragrances announced the launch of its Smart Home Fragrance Diffuser in partnership with Pura, an innovative smart home fragrance company. The on-demand home fragrance diffusion device can be controlled by a smartphone including adjusting the intensity, switching between fragrances and creating a customised schedule.

The future of fragrance

So, what is set for the future of the fragrance industry? “Many consumers will still be working from home, which will support home fragrance, but the lift in candles may taper slightly,” says Katie Thomas, who leads the Kearney Consumer Institute, an internal think tank at global strategy and management consulting firm, Kearney. She adds: “Luxury and traditional perfumes will demonstrate ongoing recovery as restaurants and stores reopen and consumers can increase their activities outside the home”.

Indeed, there is widespread agreement that the events of the past 18 months have significantly changed the fragrance and perfume industry. “COVID-19 is really the big driver behind the whole trend of functional fragrance now, it’s the big catalyst and I expect to see it more in the developed markets,” says Jason Lee.

Since restrictions have started to lift, the fragrance industry has already seen an uplift in sales. In the first quarter of 2021, prestige fragrance sales rose by 45%. And according to NPD Group, brands like Estée Lauder have reported strong sales for high-end fragrances like Jo Malone and Le Labo. As we emerge into the new normal, brands will need to continue to reflect the changing needs of their customers.  The pandemic won’t last forever, but some aspects of the changed fragrance industry are likely to be here to stay. As said by Donagh Quigley, Founder of The Handmade Soap Company: “This pandemic will pass. Life might be slightly different, but people will still want their homes to smell beautiful”.

Interested in finding out more about fragrance?

Take a look at why fragrance might have become a “dirty word” here.

Naringin is a natural polyphenol found in citrus fruits. Its strong antioxidant activity and valuable biological actions make it a perfect candidate for a well ageing strategy. However, due to its low water solubility, this molecule has been set aside from the cosmetic field…until now.

Using its enzyme technology, Hayashibara, of the Nagase Group, has developed an ‘upgraded Naringin’. The result is a glycosylated Naringin, a natural and water-soluble active. This increases the synthesis of elastin fibers components and enhances elastin fibers formation. With this unique mechanism of action, it efficiently boosts skin firmness and elasticity.

Check out our in-cosmetics Virtual technical seminars, including ‘The boundless potential of performance-wise PGFEs’

Speakers

Sumit Chopra
Director Research Analysis, Global Data

Sumit has over 14 years of senior leadership experience in the area of research & analysis covering business strategy formulation, innovation, behavioural insights and competitive analysis.

He is well-experienced in providing a balanced view around both quantitative and qualitative analysis to interpret data, generating insights on how categories and brands can best leverage the latest market trends to win consumers, drive business growth.

1. Emotional Beauty Technology
As consumers increasingly worry over their already high-stress levels, brands and ingredient firms are developing solutions that can calm and soothe. Beauty innovators are now stepping into the fray to offer technical calming solutions.

Adaptive Care
For example, adaptive botanicals are at the heart of Givaudan Active Beauty’s latest collection, used to regulate the body while connecting beauty and well-being via several cosmetic applications. The Adaptogenes Botanicals Solution range comprises 10 adaptogenetic botanical extracts that work to stimulate the immune system, calm the nervous system, increase oxygen to cells, support cell regeneration and rid the body of metabolic waste.

The extracts include moringa, aloe vera, turmeric, acerola, ashwagandha, reishi, schizandra, gotu kola, panax ginseng and rhodiola. The range is sustainably produced and extracted and can be used in facial care, body care, personal washes, and hair and scalp care to reportedly decrease stress, moisturize and nourish, detoxify, energize, soothe and heal.

Givaudan Active Beauty formulators used the range’s moringa leaves and turmeric to create a 2-in-1 beauty concept. It includes a detoxifying mask, meant to create fresh, radiant skin, and a moringa powder that can be added to beverages such as water, juice or smoothies to enhance the effects of the mask.

The company also generated a concept formulation, the S3D Moodbooster, a day cream featuring cranberry and kendi oil to soothe consumers’ skin and reduce redness, thereby boosting their mood over a period of a month. Givaudan Active Beauty created a pack for the concept, based on recycled raw materials like glass and cotton.

Stress-free Aging
Greentech and Deinove’s anti-aging active, Hebelys, is designed to boost cutaneous architecture whilst maintaining aging skin’s beauty by limiting cell senescence. It is also said to improve skin density and elasticity. New testing has reportedly found that the ingredient also provides emotional benefits such as increasing self-esteem and improving mood states in consumers.

This was substantiated through physiological and psychological tests, performed on subjects aged 60-70 years after use of a Hebelys-containing formulation for 56 days. Subjects reportedly experienced a “well-being effect and … sense of bliss,” according to a company announcement.

Regeneration from the Sea
Sequens’ Glycuron 2.78 (INCI: Alteromonas ferment extract) is a high molecular weight (4 million Da) exopolysaccharide, rich in uronic acid, which is produced via biotechnology. This particular Alteromonas sp. strain was collected in a Mo’orea (French Polynesia) sea lagoon from sea anemone. The material enhances sensory in personal care, addresses skin inflammation and boosts dermo-epidermal cell regeneration. Critically, the supplier also argues that the technology can have a positive impact on users’ emotional state.

2. Clean, Eco-friendly Dominates
Brands seeking to boost their clean beauty and sustainability profiles have more resources than ever at their fingertips, with suppliers at recent events offering numerous strategies for meeting consumer demands for more eco-friendly products.

Fighting the Good Fight
While clean beauty is a massive market opportunity, it also requires extensive defense of the safe synthetics the industry has long offered. Recently, Grant Industries joined Instagram (@grant.industries) to provide science-based insights into the use of materials such as silicones and has partnered with influencers such as @labmuffinbeautyscience who marry social media savvy with sound science to break through the anti-ingredient noise that so often dominates these platforms.

Clean Formulation Tool
Transparency is increasingly critical to beauty consumers but the proliferation of NGO and retailer ingredient lists have created challenges in ensuring formulations and products are compliant. That’s why BASF launched its Ingredient Insider online tool (https://carecreations.basf.us/ingredient-insider), allowing formulators and brands to access the top public chemical lists of clean ingredients in one place.

The platform assists users in selecting ingredients that comply with various industry chemical lists, including EWG’s Skin Deep database, Amazon Chemicals Policy, NPA Illustrative List, Whole Foods list, COSMOS Natural certifications, REACH SIN List, Campaign for Safe Cosmetics Red list and many more. Users can select multiple lists to confirm multi-list compliance.

Palm Oil Sustainability
BASF, The Estée Lauder Companies and the Roundtable on Sustainable Palm Oil have partnered with Solidaridad to support independent smallholder farmers in Waykanan, Lampung, Indonesia. The program will deliver education and technical support for implementing and maintaining sustainable agricultural practices. In addition, the partnership is designed to get at least one-third of these farmers certified according to the RSPO Smallholder Standard at the end of three years.

Biodegradability Matters
Among the sustainable strategies on display at recent shows was the increased presence of biodegradable materials. Here are a few of the recent launches.

Biodegradable surfactant blend: Pilot Chemical has unveiled its CalBlend PE (INCI: sodium laureth sulfate (and) cocamidopropyl betaine (and) sodium lauryl sulfate (and) cocamide MIPA) biodegradable surfactant and preservative blend offering viscosity and foaming characteristics for personal care, including body wash.

The single-component scrubs are naturally brown and contain no added pigment or dyes. The products are available in spherical shapes for gentle exfoliation and strong visual cue, as well as irregular shapes for more intensive exfoliation.

The company’s Naturesoft 860R, meanwhile, is a natural ultrafine powder derived from rice bran wax that offers oil and dry binding, enhanced texture and a mattifying effect in personal care products requiring a biodegradable solution for achieving a luxurious feel.

Biodegradable film formers: Covestro bio-based, biodegradable film-forming technologies, including Baycusan Eco (INCI: polyurethane-93), a hair fixative agent based on more than 50% renewable feedstock, offers curl retention and frizz control, even in high-humidity environments.

According to the company, it can also offer heat protection at temperatures as high as 330°C. Its conditioning effect purportedly produces smoothness and hair manageability. Baycusan Eco achieves 60% biodegradation in 28 days, per an OECD 301 test.

Covestro’s Baycusan C 1004 (INCI: polyurethane-35) is a film former designed for high-performance sun care that can stand up to water exposure while minimizing the impact on marine ecosystems.

Biodegradable hold: Ashland’s Styleze ES-1 polymer, comprising guar and guar derivatives, reportedly delivers volume, bounce, and defined waves and curls in hair care applications. The material is COSMOS-validated biodegradable, according to the company, and provides style durability and 48-hour humidity resistance in products such as mousse formulations. It also delivers improved foam bloom and stabilization.

No performance trade-off: Critically for any of these technologies, consumers must not lose out on performance when adopting sustainable products. For example, Clariant’s nature-derived ingredients emphasize ISO 16128 and sustainability improvements including biodegradability, compliance with the main Ecolabels and clear improved environmental footprint. This includes Plantasens Flash 80 and Flash 100, which deliver functionality and sensory to applications ranging from body mousses to easy-spreading sun care.

Ingredient Alternatives
In addition to biodegradability, companies displayed ingredients that offer alternatives to conventional materials that may be objectionable to some brands, retailers or consumers.

Talc: For instance, Jojoba Desert has introduced its non-GMO JD Jojoba Silk Like Powder, a talc alternative that provides comparable velvety skin feel, according to the company. The powder comprises JD Jojoba oil and tapioca starch to produce the material’s silky and smooth texture. The oil also offers anti-inflammatory and anti-aging benefits, comprising omega 9 and vitamin E.

CBD: CBD is all the rage but some brands and retailers are reluctant to leap into the market, particularly as the U.S. Food and Drug Administration continues to seek regulatory clarity for the cannabis-sourced (typically hemp) product. That’s why Ashland launched its CB2-Skin patchouli-based biofunctional that purportedly acts similarly to CBD oil for calming, soothing and well-aging properties in skin.

D5: With D5 in the crosshairs of regulators, Shin-Etsu Silicones has developed an alternative for products such as foundations. The solution combines DM-Fluid-2cs (INCI: dimethicone) and DM-Fluid-A-6cs (INCI: dimethicone).

DM-Fluid-2cs is a high-purity volatile silicone that is light to the touch and non-irritating, making it palatable for the eyes and face. DM-Fluid-A-6cs is a non-volatile, low-viscosity dimethyl silicone fluid that is reportedly water-repellent and spreads easily on skin. When combined, the two DMFs match D5 in performance, according to Shin-Etsu.

Alkanolamides: Colonial Chemicals’ ColaTeric HBS is derived from hemp seed oil and can reportedly replace traditional alkanolamides in cleansing applications, helps build viscosity in a variety of surfactant systems, and leaves a luxurious skin feel.

It is PEG-free and can be used in applications including facial cleansers, sulfate-free systems, shampoos, bath gels and soap-based liquid cleansers. The material is grown in soils typically challenging for traditional seed crops and is sustainably harvested.

Silicones: As many suppliers and chemists will point out, silicones offer a unique solution from the industry’s toolbox, which fits well into clean beauty concepts. That hasn’t stopped companies from developing alternatives, particularly in hair care.

For instance, Botanic Innovations has launched broccoli seed oil (INCI: Brassica oleracea italica (broccoli) seed oil) as what it argues is a mild silicone alternative that can be used across applications.

The natural, non-greasy oil comprises more than 45% erucic acid (omega 9) in order to enhance hair’s shine whilst helping to moisturize and tame flyaways and frizz in coarser hair. The oil also contains high levels of beta-carotene, retinol, vitamin E tocopherols and carotenoids; the fatty acids included help to stabilize formulations.

Sustainably grown and harvested in North America, the ingredient is non-GMO and is reportedly 100% natural for a clean label. The company warns that the ingredient has a distinct odor, but that it can be avoided through the use of natural masking or fragrance ingredients, such as cranberry or carrot seed oil.

3. Going Vegan
With the rise of cruelty-free demands, suppliers and brands have worked to deliver new solutions for ethics-focused shoppers.

For instance, Givaudan recently acquired the cosmetics business of AMSilk GmbH, in a move to strengthen the capabilities of its active beauty business. AMSilk’s vegan silk biopolymers are ideal for the changing marketplace and reportedly offer a variety of applications across categories including hair care and skincare, with benefits such as silky touch, anti-pollution and color protection. To date, AMSilk has filed 10 patents for the use of biopolymers in cosmetics applications.

Elementis’ Bentone Luxe WN, meanwhile, is a vegan rheology modifier and emulsifier that enables stable emulsions with a variety of textures. The ingredient reportedly imparts a light feel and helps create a quick break sensation. Bentone Luxe WN was shortlisted for in the Innovation Zone – Functional Ingredients category for the 2019 in-cosmetics Global awards.

Elementis also use Bentone Luxe WN in simplified 98% natural vegan formulations that offered elegant sensory effects, which can benefit anything from thin lotions to rich, buttery creams.

Jojoba Desert’s JD Jojoba Butter Vegan offers silky textures in lip, hair and sun care for vegan consumers. The butter shares the non-sticky texture of the original JD Jojoba Butter, as well as its properties for moisturization, restoration and regeneration. The vegan option contains a high concentration of JD Jojoba Oil, is oil-miscible and is free of preservatives and coloring agents.

Global Cosmetic Industry Magazine is an official media partner of in-cosmetics North America’s 2019 Marketing Trends program.

Want to read the full article? Check out the July/August 2019 digital edition of Global Cosmetic Industry magazine at http://gcimagazine.texterity.com/gcimagazine/july_august_2019.

Wellness and the pursuit of a holistic, healthy lifestyle has changed modern perceptions of beauty. In turn, this change has driven demand for wellness-led, functional products that enable consumers to integrate wellness into their everyday lives. More than ever, consumers are stepping away from quick fixes and cover-ups and turning to holistic solutions in the ultimate pursuit for well being.

Cherie Buziak, Founder, BeautyEdge LLC and technical advisor for in-cosmetics North America reveals how beauty brands can meet consumer wellness needs, and what marketers need to know.

Wellness. What does it mean to the consumer today? And how do we, as marketers and product designers respond to the wants and desires of today’s consumer that seeks balance and overall good health in their lives?

First, let’s look at the past to understand where wellness is in the present.

The evolution of wellness

From 3,000 – 50 BC, ancient wellness included therapies like Ayurveda – one of the world’s oldest holistic healing systems – and traditional Chinese medicine, which combined more than 2,500 years of Chinese medical practice including various forms of herbal medicine, acupuncture, massage, exercise and dietary therapy.

Elsewhere in the world, the Greeks used diet to prevent sickness while the Romans did the same by combining diet with healthy living conditions.

In the 19^th Century, wellness practices evolved to incorporate spiritual philosophies. This can be seen more specifically in the U.S. and Europe where several alternative, holistic healthcare methods including self-healing and preventive care grew in popularity, including homoeopathy, osteopathy, chiropractic, and naturopathy.

By the 1650s, the use of the word “wellness” was incorporated into the English language – meaning the opposite of “illness” or the “state of being well or in good health”.

By the 20^th Century, the wellness movement had gained significant momentum.  Wellness institutes were born with more serious attention given to one’s overall well being. In the U.S., government-sponsored programs began to promote healthier lifestyles. By 1990, the modern concept of wellness spread to Europe, where the German Wellness Association (Deutscher Wellness Verband, DWV) and the European Wellness Union (Europäischen Wellness Union, EWU) were founded.

The wellness industry continues to gain momentum in the 21^st Century. The Global Wellness Institute revealed that in October 2018, the wellness economy grew from $3.7 trillion in 2015 to $4.2 trillion in 2017 – nearly twice the rate of the global economy (3.6 per cent annually). The report stated that wellness expenditures now equate to more than half of the total global health expenditures ($7.3 trillion), and the wellness industry represents 5.3 per cent of global economic output.

The report also outlined individual category values, with the personal care, beauty and anti-ageing sector topping the list with a total value of $1,083 billion; followed by healthy eating, nutrition and weight loss at $702 billion; wellness tourism at $639 billion; fitness and mind-body at $595 billion; and preventative and personalized medicine and public health at $575 billion.

Demonstrating the holistic approach

Clearly, wellness has come a long way since its inception, with the wellness economy continuing to mirror consumer priorities, with growing recognition of the critical impact of external environments on our health and well being. For example, well being can now also be seen in the buildings we live in, our social climates and the holistic benefits offered in the workplace.

According to Forbes, 89% of employees at companies that support well-being initiatives are more likely to recommend their company as a good place to work while 61% of employees agree that they have made healthier lifestyle choices because of their company’s wellness program.

No longer are we inspired to bring wholeness and healing to our physical bodies, now we consciously strive to heal our spirits, and our inner selves with the communities and world around us in a very mindful way.

With this information, what do consumers really want? It’s evident that they are seeking what we all strive to obtain; inner calm, positive behavioural change, a universal peace, togetherness and a sense of head to toe wellness that embodies healthy eating, healthy life choices and healthy minds. With this, consumers also want personal care and beauty products that complement a lifestyle focused on wellness.

Incorporating wellness

If a universal concept of wellness is defined, we as beauty marketers may need to change our thinking about how we create aspirational products to incorporate how our customers think, use and experience the products we develop. From fighting urban pollution, protecting skin from damaging blue lights or choosing toxin-free products, the quest for wellness and a healthier lifestyle is transforming consumer attitudes towards the beauty and personal care industries.

By increasing the crossover and collaboration with fitness and wellness companies, beauty and personal care brands can identify new distribution channels and expand their customer base.

Brands must factor in how the end-user interacts with the product and how it affects their home or work environment. Further to this, we must consider the types of work environments the consumer engages with in order to create products that enhance their well being and personal space – no matter the location.

If brands can focus on and streamline their products and messaging, they can stay relevant. It’s no longer enough for beauty brands to claim they are natural or enhance our well being. Modern consumers demand transparency and expect their favourite brands to accommodate their new wellness-minded attitudes. It’s time for the beauty industry and us as marketers to embrace this change and up our game.

Cherie Buziak, Founder, BeautyEdge LLC, will lead a session at in-cosmetics North America on ‘Beauty and beyond’ on Wednesday 23 October at 12:45 in the Marketing Trends Theater exploring product development opportunities in the age of gender neutral products and expressive beauty. For more information on the in-cosmetics North America 2019 education programme, visit: https://northamerica.in-cosmetics.com/en/education/cosmetics-marketing-trends/