By Covalo

From the surge in hyperpigmentation solutions to the mainstreaming of biotech actives, new data patterns are reshaping the personal care landscape. Explore the signals behind the trends, and what they mean for R&D, sourcing, and sustainability strategies in 2026.

Predicting 2026’s beauty breakthrough through real search behaviour

The cosmetic industry is evolving faster than ever, with new ingredients, actives, and formulations emerging almost daily. But in an era of hype-driven trends, how can brands separate short-lived fads from innovations with staying power?

The answer lies in data-driven insights.

At Covalo, we monitor real-time ingredient searches, formulation interests, and campaign-driven behaviuor across the beauty ecosystem.

By analyzing these patterns, we can better understand what’s trending today and anticipate which ingredients and categories may influence skincare innovation in 2026. By analyzing these patterns, we can identify not only what’s trending today but also which ingredients and categories are likely to shape skincare innovation in 2026.

We’ll explore the top searched ingredients of the last few months, uncover the signals behind sudden spikes versus steady growth, and tie these insights to lessons learned from our campaigns.

Data speaks: The ingredients driving beauty’s next chapter

When it comes to predicting where beauty innovation is heading, ingredient search behaviour offers an unusually clear window into the industry’s mindset. Over the past few months, certain keywords have stood out on Covalo, signalling the actives and benefits that are capturing most attention.

Among the most-searched ingredients we have exosomes (consistently on the top spot since the beginning of summer), retinal, collagen, caffeine, urea, niacinamide and ceramides. Alongside these, there has been a dramatic spike in searches related to hyperpigmentation, which jumped nearly 1.000% in September.

This sudden surge suggests that interest in hyperpigmentation isn’t following a steady, long-term curve, but rather a pattern of even-driven or campaign-influenced attention – possibly linked to seasonal launches, social conversations, or emerging claims around tone correction and photoaging.

In contrast, peptides, like peauforiaᵀᴹ by Core Biogenesis or Cellaigie by LipoTrue, tell a different story. Their steady growth since August reflects consistent, sustained interest. The kind of interest often seen when an ingredient moves from “trending” to “trusted”. Peptides have become quite a powerhouse for skin longevity, barrier reinforcement, and repair, underpinning a new generation of functional anti-ageing formulations.

Together, these patterns highlight the dual nature of today’s beauty innovation landscape: fast-reacting and content-driven on one side, yet steadily grounded in proven, science-based actives on the other.

Trends steering 2026 innovation

If 2025 was the year beauty embraced biotech buzzwords, 2026 will be the year the science actually lands on the shelf. Industry forecasts and ingredient search data point toward a convergence of clinical performance, skin resilience, and transparent sustainability – a new standard where innovation must prove both its efficacy and its ethics.

1 – Biotech becomes everyday beauty

According to Mintel’s 2026 forecast, “Metabolic Beauty” will define next year’s innovation pipeline. Actives such as exosomes, peptides and fermented polysaccharides, are transitioning from niche clinical ingredients to accessible daily skincare.

Covalo’s search data echoes this shift. Steady interest in peptides and continued curiosity around exosomes suggest R&D teams are moving beyond traditional retinoids to explore how cellular communication and regeneration can be optimized. 2026 will reward brands that can translate biotech sophistication into clear, results-driven stories consumers can trust.

2 – Precision care

The sharp surge in hyperpigmentation-related searches reveals a renewed obsession with targeted correction. At the same time, consistent searches for ceramides, niacinamide, and urea show that barrier care remains a bedrock of formulation strategy.

Together, these patterns suggest that skincare in 2026 will be both precise and protective, addressing tone irregularities and visible photoaging while reinforcing the skin’s natural defences.

As seen with Covalo’s longevity campaign, there’s a shift from “anti-ageing” to “longevity” – meaning preserving skin health, boosting resilience and barrier strength rather than just reversing damage. The future of corrective skincare lies in pairing visible transformation with long-term barrier support.

3 – The Blue Shift: From sustainability to accountability

“Blue Beauty” is evolving from a marketing term into a measurable practice. Reports from Cosmetics Design, Vogue, and Covalo’s own data, highlight ocean-safe formulations, traceable marine sourcing, and regenerative seaweed farming as rising expectations for 2026.

Search and formulation data indicate growing interest in marine-derived polysaccharides and algae extracts, confirming that the sea remains one of beauty’s most promising frontiers. In your ingredient story, emphasise provenance, ecosystem impact and traceability. Bring in real supply-chain details and metrics (farmer partnerships, regenerative practices) to reinforce credibility.

Clearly, traceability and circular sourcing are no longer optional, they’re proof points that earn consumer and regulatory trust.

4 – Personalisation meets the senses

Beyond efficacy, next year’s innovation wave will focus on how skincare feels and fits into daily life. Mintel’s “Sensorial Synergy” trend highlights the growing importance of texture, scent, and emotional engagement, while advances in AI are pushing hyper-personalized formulations to mainstream routines.

Search behaviour from brands already hints at this evolution, consumers are ready to explore ingredients that promise not only results but comfort, calm, and pleasure in use.

Turning data into strategy

Identifying a trend is only the first step, the real value lies in how you act on it. The ingredient search patterns and broader forecasts for 2026 highlight an important shift: the beauty industry is no longer driven by inspiration alone, but by interpretation.

Formulators and brands are learning to read signals the way investors read markets, balancing short-term momentum with long-term fundamentals. A sudden surge in “hyperpigmentation”, for instance, might point to a marketing opportunity or an emerging need for new brightening actives. In contrast, the steady climb of peptides or ceramides shows where R&D investments will continue to pay off over time.

The industry’s most forward-thinking players are already combining market data, search behaviour, and sustainability metrics to guide early-stage innovation. By treating ingredient data as a predictive tool, beauty brands can move from reactive formulation to proactive creation.

Conclusion – Reading the signals of 2026

As the data shows, 2026 won’t be defined by a single “it” ingredient, but by a new mindset shaping how industry approaches formulation. The next generation of beauty will blend biotechnology and biology, precision and protection, science and sustainability. All guided by a deeper understanding of what consumers truly value: proof, purpose, and performance.

Behind every spike in search interest lies a story of curiosity, innovation, and opportunity. Some peaks hint at short-term buzz. Others, like the steady rise of barrier-strengthening and longevity actives, signal where lasting investment is headed. The brands that can read these shifts early and act decisively will set the pace for the year ahead.

Stay ahead of the curve and explore Covalo’s trend filters to track ingredient movements in real time, and uncover the signals shaping skincare’s future.

Feeling inspired?

Then why not visit one of the in-cosmetics events around the world?

BROWSE SHOWS

Join us on Tuesday 12 December as we explore natural ingredients, sustainability and anti-ageing with personal care ingredient suppliers from across the world. Register to watch live or on-demand.

PROGRAMME:

STIMULATING SKIN’S NATURAL HEALING, A PROMISING STRATEGY TO FILL IN WRINKLES (HALLSTAR BEAUTY)

COSMETIC PEPTIDES AND A POTENTIAL TFA BAN: MITIGATIVE ACTIONS TO PREPARE FOR THE FUTURE (SENN CHEMICALS)

(Tuesday 12 December)
9:40am, London time / 10:40am, Paris time / 11:40am, Warsaw time / 17:40, Beijing time / 01:40am, Los Angeles time / 4:40am, New York time

(Session is 30mns long)

Senn Chemicals will explore how the industry can adopt sustainable manufacturing methods to bypass the use of TFA, facilitating the development of environmentally friendly and TFA-free cosmetic products.

MORE INFO AND REGISTER FOR THIS WEBINAR

FROM CONCEPT TO COLLABORATION: INFUSING INNOVATION INTO FORMULATION TEAMS (COVALO)

(Tuesday 12 December)
10:30am, London time / 11:30am, Paris time / 12:30pm, Warsaw time / 18:30, Beijing time / 02:30am, Los Angeles time / 5:30am, New York time

(Session is 30mns long)

This session will be 100% practical and can be actioned immediately. Navigating innovation & ingredient trends, filtered to your needs creating your personal library of star ingredients and new concepts sharing ideas and collaborating with your team.

MORE INFO AND REGISTER FOR THIS WEBINAR

MEET CONSUMER TRENDS WITH LAB-GROWN POWERHOUSE ACTIVE ECTOIN (BITOP AG)

(Tuesday 12 December)
13:50, London time / 14:50, Paris time / 15:50, Warsaw time / 21:50, Beijing time / 05:50am, Los Angeles time / 8:50am, New York time

(Session is 30mns long)

Bitop AG will provide an overview of current anti-ageing consumer trends and explain how the multifunctional lab-grown active Ectoin® natural can help you to formulate highly effective, “clean-beauty” formulations, meeting the latest market trends.

MORE INFO AND REGISTER FOR THIS WEBINAR 

Please note that, should the above timings not suit you, all sessions will be available on demand from 13 December onwards.

(Sponsored Content)

The Personal Care Global team will be out in force at the 2023 renewal of in-cosmetics Asia to meet as many people as possible over the three days of the show.

Editor Tim Probert, business manager Chris Vincent, publisher Geoff King and publishing director Trevor Moon will be at stand C100 to discuss future editorial and advertising opportunities in the magazine and online, as well renew old acquaintances. We cannot wait to meet you.

While there, there is an opportunity to pick up free copies of the October 2023 and November 2023 issues of Personal Care Global magazine, which are both packed with the latest industry news, views, features and formulations.

In addition, there will be an opportunity to get the latest edition of our wildly popular series of Little Books: Little Book of Sustainable Ingredients Volume 2. Also to hand will be Little Book of Natural Ingredients Volume 4, which launched earlier in the year at in-cosmetics Global.

The Little Books contain around 200 pages of the latest formulations from the world’s leading personal care ingredient producers

The formulations reflect the fast-changing world of skin care, from anti-ageing facial care to body care, from creams to bars, serums and sprays, from day care to night care.

It is no exaggeration to say our Little Books fly off the shelves, so be sure to visit the stand early to ensure you get hold of a free copy.

Meanwhile, Personal Care Global is delighted to once again be the media partner for the prestigious Formulation Lab.

The Formulation Lab, sponsored by Namsiang, allows R&D and lab staff of cosmetics brands, contract manufacturers, private labels and indie brands to take a deep dive into the technical applications and formulations using selected ingredients.

Day one will see Nikko Chemicals demonstrate how to make an O/W waterproof mineral sunscreen with biodegradable emulsifier while Kobo will show how to adjust a formulation to create three face products with different textures.

Other Formulation Lab participants include Ashland, Clariant, Gattefossé, IOI Oleo, Innospec, Elementis, Lucas Meyer Cosmetics and Shieling Laboratories.

If you are unable to visit us in person at in-cosmetics Asia, don’t despair! Copies of the magazine will be available at the show in the various distribution bins.

And if you can’t make in-cosmetics Asia at all, our website is the primary source of information for formulators looking for news, technical articles, formulations and suppliers.

While there, you can sign up for digital copies of the magazine as well as our weekly newsletters sent to around 20,000 opt-in subscribers.

Via email, we can be reached at editorial@personalcaremagazine.com. We look forward to seeing or hearing from you soon!

Enjoyed this article? Get more by subscribing to our newsletter!

Feeling inspired to see ingredients and trends in action?

Then why not visit one of the in-cosmetics events around the world?

BROWSE SHOWS

From stardom to beauty universe. The Brazilian actress Cristiana Oliveira became famous after playing one of the most famous roles on Brazilian Television, Juma Marruá, in the first version of the soap opera Pantanal, in 1990, and nowadays she spends her time between acting and her cosmetic brands: D’Bianco Professional and C.O Cosméticos.

It is not enough to star on television, in movies, in music, or on the internet, in recent years we have seen a movement of actresses, singers and digital influencers becoming entrepreneurs in the area of beauty.

Rihanna may be one of the most famous international examples of investment in the beauty market. Betting heavily on the cosmetic industry, one of the most known singers currently, she even took some time off of her career to dedicate exclusively to her brand. Fenty Beauty by Rihanna has added up more than 11 million followers on Instagram only, and it is an absolute sales success, having transformed the singer into a new beauty sector billionaire.

Before her, sisters Kylie Jenner and Kim Kardashian had also launched Kylie Cosmetics and KKW Beauty, respectively, and, following their lead, there came Haus Labs, by Lady Gaga, r.e.m beauty, by Ariana Grande, JLo Beauty by Jennifer Lopez, Rhode, by Hailey Bibier, amongst countless others.

Brazil is not far behind this trend, in the last couple of years, renowned names from the digital universe, such as Camila Coutinho, Julia Petit and Bruna Tavares, invested both time and effort to create their cosmetic brands, transferring their knowledge and reputation to their businesses.

We have interviewed exclusively the actress Cristiana Oliveira, who has also joined the cosmetics market recently. She welcomed us in a virtual meeting that was more than 2 hours long and, told us upfront that her inspiration for the beauty universe comes from observing her mother when she was still young.

“Since I was a teenager, I had always noticed that my mother was very careful with her hair and skin. My father was the chairman of a big company in the 60s and my parents used to travel a lot and participate in events which made my mother constantly worry about taking care of herself. She really liked to look after herself.” says Cristiana.

Following her mother’s example, the actress was always inspired to research cosmetic products. The exuberant hair, a trademark of the leading character Juma Marruá, played and immortalized by Cristiana in the first version of the soap opera Pantanal, has always received special attention from the actress, but it took 3 decades for an opportunity to invest in the cosmetics universe to arise and, coincidently, in the haircare sector.

In 2018, the actress was invited to become a partner in the brand devoted to hairdressers, D’Bianco Professional. “I said that I wanted to learn about [the products], try [them], but also send the products to friends, influencers, people I’m not so close to, so that they could give their honest opinion. After having 98% positive feedback, I accepted the invitation to join D’ Bianco as a business partner and director.”, explains Cristiana.

In 2019, the business partners created another brand, aimed at the end consumer this time around, called C.O Cosméticos, in reference to the actress’s initials. The C.O Cosméticos works with a door-to-door sales model and is also sold in stores specialising in cosmetics.

The news this month is that they are launching a vegan line, offering the market 9 products developed with oils from the Pantanal and inputs from other Brazilian biomes. “We had already launched a vegan micellar water that became a hit, and now we have developed this line”, says the actress and businesswoman.

The line with “Pantanal oils” is divided into 3 kits with shampoo, conditioner and hair mask each. The products for curls are made with Pequi oil, the products for hydration have Buriti oil in their formula and the post-chemical products were created with Pracaxi oil. Cristiana Oliveira was recently invited to be an ambassador of SOS Pantanal NGO, an organization whose mission is to disseminate and promote dialogue for a sustainable Pantanal. According to the actress, part of the income from the sale of these cosmetics will be donated to the NGO. During the launching, the products will be sold with a special box that on the side will display a summary regarding SOS Pantanal and a QR Code that will take the customer to the organization’s website.

The timing to talk about Brazilian biomes in the country couldn’t be better, since a remake of the Pantanal soap opera has just starred on Globo Television, 32 years after its original version – in the last week of March. Although Cristiana Oliveira is not cast in the new version, she says that if she’s at all worried about sustainability, animals and environmental preservation, it is all due to the experience and immersion she had in Pantanal in 1990.  “I also lived in Manaus for 4 months in 1991, while shooting my second soap opera, that went by the name Amazonia, and all this experience led me to volunteer and work with several conservation NGOs over the years,” tells us Cristiana.

For the fans who miss the actress, she will soon be on the big screen with the movie Eco Loucos, and at the end of April, she will also release an autobiographical book, in which she tells her stories in search of self-esteem and her relationship with maturity. For those who would like to know more about Cristiana Oliveira’s businesswoman side, they can now take home a little bit of Pantanal in the haircare products that C.O Cosméticos produces.

Enjoyed this article? Get more by subscribing to our newsletter! The post Pantanal as inspiration for cosmetic products first appeared on in-cosmetics Connect.]]> https://connect.in-cosmetics.com/articles/pantanal-as-inspiration-for-cosmetic-products-by-silvia-lourenco/feed/ 0 17185 https://connect.in-cosmetics.com/rd/demetrix-cbg-for-skincare/ https://connect.in-cosmetics.com/rd/demetrix-cbg-for-skincare/#respond Sun, 13 Mar 2022 16:18:14 +0000 http://ec2-52-48-9-53.eu-west-1.compute.amazonaws.com/?p=16690 We caught up with Cindy Bryant from Demetrix to discuss all things rare cannabinoids and their impressive properties, exciting new research, the beauty of fermentation, and rising to meet the growing consumer demand for transparent, sustainable products that deliver results. 1. Demetrix is dedicated to the ongoing research of cannabinoids, demonstrating its efficacy, and determining […]

For the last 18 months or so, Covid has affected pretty much every aspect of our lives. From social habits to ways of conducting businesses, we have adapted to what many have defined as the “new normal”.

Optimists have probably seen some positive sides, for example, a global decrease in air pollution due to travel bans and travel restrictions along with the opportunity to enjoy valuable family time during lockdowns. Others, maybe a little less of half-full-glass types, have pointed at shrinking economies, loss of jobs, and, more broadly speaking, the frailty of humankind.

The in-cosmetics Formulation Summit 2021 is a true reflection of how the beauty industry, always resourceful, innovative and driven by science, has responded and shaped to make the most of the current times to meet evolving consumer needs.

Attendees at the opening day of the Summit (29 November) will learn how the pandemic has changed both the industry and consumers’ behaviour. The humble soap bar and alcohol-based hand sanitisers have risen to the new role of “hero products”. In the first weeks of the pandemic, the demand for these goods skyrocketed, exposing supply chain weaknesses. Several manufacturers experienced never-before-seen shortages of vital raw materials, from ethanol to acrylic polymers. At the same time, questions emerged from a regulatory, safety and claims point of view.

The line between cosmetics, biocides, and sanitising agents became thinner than ever before, with too many self-appointed formulators jumping onto the bandwagon of hand hygiene and producing all sorts of remedies claiming an ability to kill the virus. For example, in some of the most concerning instances, hand-sanitisers were found to contain substances at levels greater than those imposed by European Regulations.

Speakers at this year’s Summit will address all the above and much more in what is going to be an interesting and inspiring debate. To conclude the day, we will also have an update on another important topic: Brexit. Here, industry experts will help our audience understand how it is affecting our industry.

Moving onto Day Two (30 November), the focus will shift towards sustainability and emotions. Sustainability has been at the core of our industry for many years. However, if not already evident from the changing climate, the pandemic has shown that the impact of human operations on the planet can be dramatic. From debunking the myths surrounding plastic materials to understanding more about the highly-debated palm oil, we will learn how cosmetic formulators and manufacturers can implement robust elements of sustainability across all aspects of the supply chain.

And, if we have realised how fragile life, in all its manifestations and nature are, then one cannot help but reckon that the pandemic has put an enormous strain on our emotions. Speakers will explore the effect of the use of beauty-care products on our emotions and how this can result in physical reactions, which then, in return, affects our mental health. From fragrances to make-up, we will hear that a more holistic approach to beauty and health is possibly the way forward.

For more information on the in-cosmetics Formulation Summit 2021 and to register to attend,
visit: https://www.in-cosmetics.com/summit/en-gb.htmlThe post How the all-important topics for this year’s Formulation Summit were chosen with Dr. Andrea Mitarotonda first appeared on in-cosmetics Connect.]]> https://connect.in-cosmetics.com/articles/formulationsummit/feed/ 0 16112 https://connect.in-cosmetics.com/trends-en/stay-at-home-a-new-focus-for-fragrance/ https://connect.in-cosmetics.com/trends-en/stay-at-home-a-new-focus-for-fragrance/#respond Wed, 21 Jul 2021 15:30:32 +0000 http://ec2-52-48-9-53.eu-west-1.compute.amazonaws.com/?p=15240 For many, the pandemic will leave lasting memories of distinct smells of clinically strong sanitisers and the familiar smell of home. For the unlucky ones that developed symptoms of anosmia – the medical name for loss of smell – the fragrance of the pandemic, or the total lack of, will be remembered in a different […]

For many, the pandemic will leave lasting memories of distinct smells of clinically strong sanitisers and the familiar smell of home. For the unlucky ones that developed symptoms of anosmia – the medical name for loss of smell – the fragrance of the pandemic, or the total lack of, will be remembered in a different way.

Arguably, the events of 2020 affected no beauty sector more than the fragrance and perfume category. At the beginning of the pandemic, vital crops went unharvested as workers were told to stay at home, key alcohol supplies were redistributed for hand sanitisers, and sales of perfumes and fragrances plummeted as people stayed at home, socially distanced and took their shopping online. One report by McKinsey looking at how COVID-19 has changed the world of beauty found that fragrance sales for prestige brands dropped 75% versus the same period in 2019. The sales decline was more significant in fragrance than in any other beauty category.  Conversely, an industry once believed to be impossible to sell online saw an uplift in its digital offering. One beauty e-commerce analysis found that online fragrance sales increased by 45% from 2019 to 2020.

As such, the pandemic has of course presented new opportunities for the fragrance industry. “This new situation also brings with it a new business opportunity, as it has driven the creation of products that are now considered essential, such as hand sanitiser gels and face masks: both items in which perfume can be used,” says Laurent Mercier, CEO of Eurofragrance.

This is just a snapshot of the changes in the fragrance industry since the start of the pandemic. Despite a drop in sales, fragrance became far from obsolete for consumers. Instead, its focus and importance in daily routine shifted. One study by Firmenich across 11 different countries including the UK and France found that 56% of consumers appreciated fragrances more during the lockdowns and 56% also took more comfort in the scents they used. “Fragrance reinforces feelings of safety, calm and happiness for consumers dealing with stressful situations. Our latest consumer research shows that the importance of scent for different populations of consumers is growing and can be leveraged by customers to determine fragrance and category mix” explains Ilaria Resta, President of Global Perfumery at Firmenich.

Fragrance as a tool for wellness

Smell is a powerful tool to evoke memories and influence mood. But for thousands of years scent has also been used in therapeutic ways. “Broadly speaking, what we have discovered during lockdown is there is a very strong message from consumers that scent is an agent of wellness,” says Judith Gross, Vice President of Creation and Design, Branding and Marketing at the IFF, a company that has been conducting consumer research on attitudes to scent since the start of the pandemic.

Jason Lee, founder of the fragrance label, SIX agrees: “Instead of luxury goods, people are channelling their money into things that will make them feel and live better while at home. COVID-19 has forced us to focus on the emotional and psychological, and people now realise fragrance plays an important role in our wellbeing”.

As the concept of wellbeing and good health has now filtered into all categories from food, beauty and body care to the home, it opens up an interesting direction and an abundance of new opportunities for the fragrance industry. “It seems that the act of putting on perfume goes beyond attracting others; it now incorporates this new concept of ‘wellness’ that consumers are asking for,” says Laurent Mercier.

Home is where the smell is

One trend that has accelerated this past year is the beautification of the home – proof that modern beauty is much more than skin deep. With months of monotonous lockdowns and little variation to routines and scenery, consumers have been looking for ways to improve their mental health and wellbeing within the home, including through fragrance. “Each space becomes even more important when you’re spending more time at home, from the living room to the bedroom or the bathroom,” says Julien Gommichon, US President of Diptyque.

Margaux Caron, Global Beauty Analyst at Mintel adds: “Even pre-COVID there was an interest to pair and compliment and emulate personal fragrance with your home fragrance. Integrating into consumer lifestyle needs to be reinvented, and it’s the right time to diversify and reinvent the category”.

Alongside traditional fragrance and perfume sales, once ancillary fragrance offerings such as candles or diffusers are now firmly in the spotlight, keeping many brands afloat.  “While everyone is staying at home, people are stocking up and ordering candles online. Candles provide a sense of comfort and calm during this challenging time” says Julien Provost, Global Creative Director for Cire Trudon. And this is reflected in the numbers; research by NPD found that candle sales grew 17% in comparison to a general category increase of 9% year to date. Elsewhere, Selfridges reported a 54% increase in candle sales since the start of the lockdown, and Net-a-Porter recorded a 130% year-on-year increase from when the first UK lockdown began in March. “These are little luxuries that people are treating themselves to in order to create a cosier, spa-like environment at home,” says Larissa Jensen, VP and Beauty Industry Advisor at NPD.

Many brands have responded to this shifted focus to the home and need for improved wellbeing amid the pandemic. NEOM Organics, for example, launched a campaign called ‘Little Moments of Wellbeing’ in 2020, encouraging its customers to take moments to pause, reset and feel good through its range of fragrant candles, body lotions and oils.

And for those that don’t want to burn candles, at-home technology is coming into play. Just last month, Skin Authority debuted its consumer-facing air filtration device, Air Beautification Filtration & DefenderPro, which was previously only available to professionals within salons and spas. Elsewhere, Canopy also launched a beauty-focused air humidifier at the end of last year. And mere months before the pandemic took its grip, NEST fragrances announced the launch of its Smart Home Fragrance Diffuser in partnership with Pura, an innovative smart home fragrance company. The on-demand home fragrance diffusion device can be controlled by a smartphone including adjusting the intensity, switching between fragrances and creating a customised schedule.

The future of fragrance

So, what is set for the future of the fragrance industry? “Many consumers will still be working from home, which will support home fragrance, but the lift in candles may taper slightly,” says Katie Thomas, who leads the Kearney Consumer Institute, an internal think tank at global strategy and management consulting firm, Kearney. She adds: “Luxury and traditional perfumes will demonstrate ongoing recovery as restaurants and stores reopen and consumers can increase their activities outside the home”.

Indeed, there is widespread agreement that the events of the past 18 months have significantly changed the fragrance and perfume industry. “COVID-19 is really the big driver behind the whole trend of functional fragrance now, it’s the big catalyst and I expect to see it more in the developed markets,” says Jason Lee.

Since restrictions have started to lift, the fragrance industry has already seen an uplift in sales. In the first quarter of 2021, prestige fragrance sales rose by 45%. And according to NPD Group, brands like Estée Lauder have reported strong sales for high-end fragrances like Jo Malone and Le Labo. As we emerge into the new normal, brands will need to continue to reflect the changing needs of their customers.  The pandemic won’t last forever, but some aspects of the changed fragrance industry are likely to be here to stay. As said by Donagh Quigley, Founder of The Handmade Soap Company: “This pandemic will pass. Life might be slightly different, but people will still want their homes to smell beautiful”.

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Interested in finding out more about fragrance?

Take a look at why fragrance might have become a “dirty word” here.

The post ‘Stay at home’: A new focus for fragrance first appeared on in-cosmetics Connect.]]>

Leading cosmetics and personal care event, in-cosmetics Global, returns to Barcelona this October to deliver safe networking and sourcing opportunities

After last year’s postponement of in-cosmetics Global due to the coronavirus pandemic, the world’s leading personal care ingredients show is set to make a highly anticipated return with its first in-person event in over 18 months. Taking place between 5-7 October in Barcelona, the industry will be reunited with a much-needed opportunity to connect face-to-face and source the latest innovations.

The careful easing of lockdown restrictions and resumption of live events means the heath and safety of visitors, exhibitors and staff continue to be the top priority. in-cosmetics Global aims to provide a safe experience for everyone involved whilst preserving the essence of the renowned event. In order to do this, it is adopting a robust ‘Health & Safety 5-point Strategy’ and is working closely with local authorities and the Fira Barcelona venue to implement all necessary precautions.

A key change made by in-cosmetics Global to ensure the delivery of a COVID-19 secure event includes the introduction of a one-way system to help maintain a minimum 1.5 metre social distancing. in-cosmetics has worked closely with Fira Barcelona to devise a robust safety strategy that follows regulations set out by the Spanish government. There will also be the highest standards of cleaning before, during and after the event, readily available hand sanitisers throughout the venue as well as increased ventilation to improve fresh air circulation.

As COVID-19 safety and security requires participation from everyone, all those attending the event will be expected to follow a number of hygiene measures such as:

• wearing face coverings
• maintaining physical distancing
• refraining from shaking hands

However, digital handshakes will be possible as for the past two editions, in-cosmetics Global has been a smart event that allows visitors and suppliers to exchange information virtually. Exhibitors will also be reviewing the design of their stands to assist with these measures and will be required to clearly display the maximum capacity to prevent overcrowding. Interactive feature areas like the Make-Up Bar, Sensory Bar and Sustainability Corner will remain an integral part of the show, with appropriate adjustments made to manage social distancing and the safe sampling of products.

Event Director of in-cosmetics Global, Roziani Zulkifli, commented: “The pandemic has halted in-person activity resulting in a string of event cancellations and postponements in all industries across the globe. Whilst we’re proud of our transition to virtual events and networking, we’re extremely excited to see the return of in-cosmetics Global in a COVID-19 secure format. The absence of physical events has only strengthened our belief in the need for face-to-face networking and collaboration throughout the cosmetics industry.”

The next edition of in-cosmetics Global is due to take place from 5-7 October 2021 in Barcelona, Spain. For more information on the health & safety measures, please visit our website

“Clean beauty” has been continuing to grow in popularity, so much so that it is evolving into a new age; “Ethical Beauty”. There is even more of a focus on how the products were created, where the raw materials were taken from and how they were extracted and with transparency being key, brands are reassessing their production and supply chains. We chatted to an expert on the subject, Jayanne Jin – EVP of Business Development at BEAUTYSTREAMS, to find out more.

With a growing number of green consumers making more environmentally friendly and ethical purchase choices, “Ethical Beauty” is gaining attention from the industry. Although its interpretation may vary across brands and individuals, what would you say is a general definition for the term “ethical beauty”?

It’s an overarching concept that ranges from social values such as veganism, anti-animal testing, and fair trade, meaning transparency at all stages of the value chain including production of raw materials, to ethical management such as fair treatment of employees. It’s a trend led by consumers who reject beauty products from certain companies in the belief that “ethical” companies will produce ethical products.

In today’s world, we can learn a lot about consumer values through their consumption and demand for “ethical beauty” is particularly evident among Millennials and Gen Z. What do you believe led to this increased consumer awareness of ethics, and therefore demand of ethical products, in the beauty industry?

We are now transitioning from pursuing high social status, wealth, and honour symbolized by capitalism, to believing that true happiness comes from a life lived with dignity and our relationships with loved ones. This means that nowadays, younger generations tend to prioritise their happiness in everyday life through their well-being and the time they share with loved ones.

As humans, we often recognise that our small actions can affect many and we assert ourselves as members of our society through consumption. Online boycotts and active political participation are deeply rooted in the desire to straighten up any unfairness in society and, at the same time, ensure equity for themselves in terms of opportunities. We’re likely to also see this phenomenon appearing in emerging economies such as China and India in the future, as their middle class grows.

With regards to more ethical products, what considerations do cosmetics companies take, both in the manufacturing process and in terms of overall product trends, to meet consumers’ growing expectations?

Companies are paying closer attention to issues such as the content of key ingredients, unfairness in material sourcing, and the use of environmentally harmful materials as well as the transparency in the labelling of product ingredients. Brands that use animal testing are no longer found in developed countries because consumers are turning their backs on them.

The standards of positive consumption for cosmetics probably vary depending on the individual or the country. In Korea, consumers prefer cosmetics that are gentle on the skin and there are popular apps, such as Hwahae and Glowpick, providing information on the composition of cosmetics. Meanwhile, in the US, with a larger number of vegetarians, consumers are more likely to favour products that are vegan or made without animal testing. Have you noticed a difference in consumer preferences at home and abroad?

I don’t think the standards for positive consumption differ much between home and abroad, although there may be individual differences. Since the ethics required by society also strictly apply to the beauty industry, companies in Korea, and overseas, both recognise the importance of ethical values. Companies and brands that don’t live up to the standards will have to adapt quickly.

In 2019, a major US retailer began to use their own “clean” label, taking products with harmful ingredients off the shelves. Likewise, Olive Young in Korea also created its own “clean” standard aimed at “Ol-young without Five Ingredients”. Online communities in Korea are particularly strong in their solidarity, so much so that any news of “bad practice” from a specific company or brand can result in a barrage of opinions, bad reviews and can directly lead to a boycott.

As it becomes more challenging to meet consumers’ growing demands over both quality and ethical value of a brand or product, how do you think beauty companies must evolve to survive?

With the spread of appreciation for sustainability, companies must stay away from focusing solely on product sales and the image of excessive consumption. To avoid “greenwashing”, they can only communicate with consumers once they practice ethical management, while establishing an authentic circular economy and minimising damage to nature.

In the future, competition in the beauty industry will be summed up as “ethics,” “sustainability,” “high quality,” and “value for price.”

It is highly challenging to achieve all of this in a short period of time. However, I think that they can create a loyal consumer base if they engage in steady communication with consumers, combining the above four elements with the brand’s philosophy.

Could you share an example of a time you’ve been influenced by the brands’ values when purchasing a cosmetics product?

MICA, the raw material used to make glitter eyeshadow, is sourced by exploiting Indian children. After watching the news, I stopped buying glitter eyeshadow. The fact that it often contains microplastics further motivated me to stay away from it. In Europe, glitter is made using eco-friendly techniques and materials, so I hope Korean companies soon change their direction.

For a bath product, I use Bath Bomb from LUSH because it has no packaging to throw away. It’s a great example of zero waste. I buy one every time I pass by a LUSH store.

After watching the video of the Braille Nails project for the visually impaired implemented by Shiseido and Google since 2018 (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=y2kgmFjJy7E), I purchased a Shiseido serum product. I hope Shiseido continue to invest in the Braille Nails project.

Does the “ethical beauty” trend provide any advantage for Korean companies?

K-Beauty is known for its “innovation” and “value for price.” However, I think there are still many challenges for Korean cosmetics to overcome before corporate ethics reaches every corner of production and encourage those who run the business to share the ideology. “Ethical Beauty” is not a transient trend. Like sustainability, it will keep spreading. This means it is also an opportunity for companies that are still preparing for it.

I hope Korean companies seize this opportunity and capitalise on their competitiveness when it comes to speed. I believe that if they take advantage of the momentum generated by K-Dramas and K-Pop, which are getting more popular around the world due to COVID-19 and quarantines, on top of the existing positive perception of K-Beauty represented by its value for price and high quality, they can perform well in foreign markets.

Want to get to know more about ethical beauty with Jayanne Jin? Check out their session at in-cosmetics Korea 2021.

(Sponsored content): courtesy of Stepan

Hair conditioners improve the manageability, appearance and feel of hair. While performance is key for the consumers (who likes bad hair days?), they have also been on the lookout for more sustainable products. A majority identify themselves as green/clean/conscious beauty buyers and are sensitive to “natural,” “environmentally friendly,” “locally sourced” claims and the absence of GMOs[1].

In this dynamic market (at least 5% value growth forecast for the next three years by Euromonitor), two ingredients are extensively used: Behentrimonium Chloride (BTAC) and Cetrimonium Chloride (CTAC). While they are strong and medium performers respectively, they are non-biodegradable, heavily CLP[2] classified and their use is restricted in the European Union. Stepan Company thus identified the need to develop a modern hair conditioning agent offering both high performance and meet sustainability expectations.

An eco-designed conditioning cationic

Stepan has decades of experience in esterquat (EQ) chemistry, notably for fabric softeners. EQs are known to be readily biodegradable, mild and less toxic to aquatic life. Stepan believed in their value for the hair conditioning market, provided that they’d match BTAC’s performance.

Esterquats are generally obtained by starting with long-chain fatty acids. For this development, Stepan decided to go greener by using European-grown sunflower oil instead of a palm-derived fatty acid. Several benefits to that: a reduction of the chemical transformation steps and a more local, sustainable supply chain. Another added benefit is that the resulting cationic agent has a much lower melt point, allowing for a high-active, low melt point product without the need for flammable solvents. While BTAC and CTAC require the use of such solvents or to be blended with fatty alcohols, the resulting EQ, STEPANQUAT^® Soleil (INCI: Dioleylethyl Hydroxyethylmonium Methosulfate (and) Sunflower Seed Oil Glycerides), does not contain any solvent nor preservative and comprises 100% total cationic and emollient actives. This fits the rising need for concentrated ingredients enabling transportation and storage optimization.

A high performing conditioning quat

STEPANQUAT Soleil was designed to be as sustainable as possible, but it needed to be proven efficient to match consumers’ expectations.

From a theoretical standpoint, using sunflower oil is supposed to be more optimal for hair than palm as its carbon chain includes high amounts of unsaturated oleic acid (C18:1). This is believed to assist in coating and lubricating the hair for ease of combing.

To verify this assumption and assess the technical performance of SF-EQ, a variety of tests were performed. Electronic microscope pictures of a damaged hair fiber were taken before and after treatment with 2% active cationic. STEPANQUAT Soleil provided visible and high-quality fibre coating, showing a very smooth appearance of the hair, while BTAC and CTAC provided a more heterogeneous result.  The detangling performance was assessed with a Dia-Stron equipment and STEPANQUAT Soleil showed equivalent results to BTAC at 2% actives, a typical use level. It also outperformed other standard EQs and CTAC. Lastly, STEPANQUAT Soleil showed a high substantivity, staying on the hair after the use and rinsing off the conditioner, for longer-lasting benefits (unlike BTAC which was rinsed out), but being eliminated at the next shampoo, preventing build-up.

Overall, STEPANQUAT Soleil has consequently proven its ability to compete with the best performing cationic quat, BTAC, and positions itself as a true alternative for greener, highly efficient hair care products.

An ally to formulators

Formulators will eventually create the finished product. They look for globally approved, easy to use ingredients.

STEPANQUAT Soleil is a 100% actives, liquid product. While formulating a hair conditioner or mask with BTAC happens around 80°C, the heating can be reduced to 65°C with this new SF-EQ. It is thus safer to use for the formulator, but also faster, which helps with tightly timed development projects. The liquid form enables more creativity regarding the form of the finished products. Cold processable products are made possible, not counting solely on silicones and CETAC anymore. Lastly, the viscosity building behaviour of STEPANQUAT Soleil is a quick response with a gradual increase as more fatty alcohol is added to the system. This allows better viscosity control during an industrial process. It is possible to reach a viscosity range covering most conditioner and mask targets.

Conclusion

Stepan has developed and patented a European sunflower oil-derived cationic for hair conditioning applications that address modern-day challenges. STEPANQUAT Soleil provides a better story for the consumer, the environment and the formulator.

[1]  Euromonitor, The Evolution of Beauty: from Green to Clean Conscious, November 2019

[2]  Classification, Labelling and Packaging (CLP)

Catch up with Mibelle’s webinar about hair root biology.