Dupe culture has exploded across the beauty industry. A viral foundation, mascara, or serum can be copied and stocked on supermarket shelves within weeks, offering consumers an affordable version of a luxury product.

For shoppers, it feels like democratisation – a beauty win at a fraction of the cost. For brands, however, it’s a more complicated story: duplication can serve as savvy marketing, but it also risks legal disputes, reputational damage, and stifling innovation.

The Australian brand MCoBeauty offers a fascinating case study in how duping has evolved from opportunistic mimicry to a structured business strategy. They don’t even hold back on calling it what what they do best,

Is it easier than ever?

If you are a seasoned cosmetic chemist, creating the exact texture and skin feel from the ingredient listing used to take many trials and errors.

Now, there are AI tools like Potion AI that can dissect your ingredient list into a formulation. You don’t even have to think; it literally takes 2 minutes.

Of course, you still need to try, but instead of manually experimenting with ingredient combinations and active ingredients takes seconds. This means that duping can be faster than ever.

Can you really dupe it?

The popularity of dupes is driven by accessibility and social media ( e.g. Lipstick Lesbians). In most cases, dupes have the 2-3 or at most the shown or claimed active ingredient added.

We all know that doing a masstige or lower category product at a fraction of the cost is not viable for the brand or the manufacturer, even in most cases, on a large scale. You can only mimic the texture.

Also, you cannot mimic the brand ethos. I think one of the most copied products I have seen is the Sol De Janeiro – Brazilian Bum Bum cream. I have even seen better textured dupes as well, but that does not mean they are sourcing Cupuaçu Butter from Amazon or that the sources of the ingredients are less altered.

There is a real ethical concern here. Of course, when we are formulating, there are benchmarks and inspirations from other textures created. In some cases, if a formulation is too stable, you might reverse engineer it, but we cannot create brand value just by being a cheaper version of something.

The other most concerning part of it is actually the misinformation age that we are living in.

TikTok has a huge volume of searches for dupes. I have seen DIYs of shower oils mixing baby shampoo and body oil. I wish it were that easy! Or a so-called dermatologist claiming ingredients are toxic or hormone disruptors.

Essentially, your feed determines what you might believe in, and a bit of luck, if you are into DIY, you might end up risking your skin in the process of creating a cheaper version of something else.

I think this is also a side effect of cancel culture because we are trying to cancel the brands that are charging a premium. Yes, the product might be a fraction of the cost, but we forget that every product sold is a fraction of someone’s salary. We choose to believe they just overcharge because they can.

Also, this can be true as well, but then it comes down to how much you believe in these brands’ stories and what drives you to buy them. Is it just the premium feel, or is there something deeper that resonates more? I think that is the key differentiation consumers need to consider.

The last place to be in this dupe world is probably a premium brand, since the cost of living crisis isn’t going away, but a luxury brand has much more to prove to its customers about what it stands for.

Yet the bigger question lingers: are dupes a clever shortcut to accessibility, or a slow erosion of the industry’s capacity to innovate?

References

RNZ: MCoBeauty follows a rigorous process when it dupes cosmetics – here’s what it looks like
Beauty Independent: MCoBeauty Faces Scrutiny Over Dupes And Legal Battles

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Sustainability is now a basic expectation in beauty, not a bonus. But when half the shelves show labels like “eco,” “clean,” or “carbon neutral,” the messages get mixed, and consumers become wary of spin.

Greenwashing remains widespread. The past two years saw high-profile exposures and a shift in regulation: France now monitors “carbon neutral” claims, and the EU’s Green Claims Directive has been paused or uncertain, raising standards in some areas and creating confusion in others

What Greenwashing Looks Like

Common tactics to watch for on beauty packaging and product descriptions:

• “Green” and “planet-friendly”
• Recyclable packaging with no reference to how and which components can be recycled
• Refillable packaging (questionable on a lifecycle analysis).
• Claims of “carbon neutral” by just buying carbon credits

A good read is ; Provenance’s overview of beauty cases; some of the highlights are: claims of recyclability that overlook closures, “plastic-free” and claims of “reef safe”

When a brand approaches me with a new sustainable packaging idea or is in urgent need of sustainable packaging, my response is always that there isn’t a perfect solution for packaging; instead, we should focus on the whole process.

Unfortunately, the world – even cities within the same country – do not have uniform recycling systems.

Glass is heavy and costly to ship if made in a foreign country; it usually requires individual wrapping to reduce dust contamination, along with extra layers of cartons to prevent breaking.

Aluminium or metal tubes, even if they are single-layer, consume a significant amount of energy to produce. They get dented very easily during shipping, leading to more waste even before the process starts. Alternative sourced plastics, on the other hand, depend heavily on the recycling infrastructure of each country, which makes recyclability a big question for target markets.

On the other hand, there is much more we can do with the formulation. Biodegradability is something that we really need to be talking about more.

Most of the personal care products are released back to water. All the formulators should be start looking more into this aspect. There is a huge market on the upcycled ingredients now which can be incorporated more to the products.

The scale-up process is another aspect of the formulation that can be highly effective in terms of sustainability. Are we choosing a cold or a hot process? Are there any improvements that can be made to reduce the processing times on a larger scale? Are we scaling up the process with the right equipment?  Eventually, this will even turn back as a profit to the brand, as the minimal processing time means reducing costs

The flip side of the coin is the regulations. France has taken the lead. Since January 1, 2023, advertisers in France can’t claim “carbon neutral,” “zero carbon,” “climate neutral,” “100% offset,” etc., unless they meet strict criteria: a full life-cycle assessment (LCA), proof of actual reductions—not just offsets—and a public disclosure of methods and offsets.

Fines can reach €100,000, scaled according to ad spend—a significant deterrent for beauty brands.

The EU Green Claims Directive – currently on hold – aimed to standardise environmental claims. However, negotiations in June 2025 were paused due to concerns about the burden on small businesses, and the European Commission even hinted at withdrawal unless scope issues are addressed.

Both sides are valid, yes, we need to have regulations, but the endpoint is not too different from the certifications.

So if you have a brand starting today, just choose the packaging that feels right and teach your audience why this was the best option and how they can recycle it but focus on the overall process as well.

Sustainability is not just packaging, it is formulation, it is process, it is storage, it is shipping.

A Quick Red-Flag Checklist for Shoppers

Ask these three questions about any “green” claim:

1. What exactly is being claimed? The whole product, just the packaging, or a single ingredient?
2. Where is the data? Look for LCA summaries, recyclability rates, and end-of-life instructions.
3. Is it verified? Is there an assessment to prove the claims with data?

Provenance — 5 Times Beauty Brands Were Accused of Greenwashing

France — Decree No. 2022-539

EU — Green Claims Directive: proposal overview and June 2025 pause/withdrawal signal.

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Men’s skincare has officially transitioned from the era of the all-in-one product, the infamous “shampoo-face-body in one bottle”, to a sophisticated, multi-step industry catered to specific needs.

According to Euromonitor International, the male grooming market was valued at approximately $61.3 billion in 2024, with an expected compound annual growth rate of about 6.4%.

In the US alone, skincare products targeting men, particularly among Generation Z (ages 18–27), saw usage escalate from 42% to 68% within just two years, indicating a significant shift in consumer behaviour.

Social media platforms like Instagram and TikTok have played a significant role in democratizing skincare advice and routines. Also, brands from the male celebrities contributed to this situation too.

Rock’s Papatui, Brad Pitt’s luxury brand, Beau Dome and many more. Also, campaigns like Dr.Squatch with Sydney Sweeney’s bath water just show how male skincare is a target now for the market.

This cultural shift, as reported by Euromonitor, has seen young men increasingly seek authenticity, leading brands to move away from stereotypical ‘for men’ branding that often felt insecure.

Additionally, society has begun to see a shift in the definition of genders and their associated roles. There is a better place for males to express their feelings and needs.

On the skincare side, I think one of the main influences is still females and heterosexual relationships. They are more intelligent in their needs, understand the ingredients better and introduce this to their partner as well.

This creates a need and a want to use a skincare product more than a shave balm. They want moisturisers, SPFs and serums because they are looking to impress their partners as well. Also, it is a good activity to do self-care/skincare together and turn that into a routine.

Of course, the K-beauty side of this is more advanced.

For example, in Olive Young, which probably has one of the largest shelf spaces for male skincare. There are even make-up shelves for males.

Will the rest of the world follow this with the K-beauty hype that is a big question mark, as I don’t think men are that much influenced yet. They might try to add an essence to the skincare range, but the rest is questionable

Even in smaller markets like New Zealand, you can see the change.

For example, one of last year’s in-cosmetics Asia 9 Faces of APAC beauty, Two Dudes, has entered a competitive shelf space in supermarkets, but they have also developed their D2C channel quite well.

They have put a mission to raise awareness on men’s health and made a simple routine that really resonates with their audience.

Last year, at a conference, one of New Zealand’s biggest male skincare brands, Triumph & Disaster, was a guest speaker. He mentioned that his grandfather used a balm – simple, all-purpose, but effective for taking care of his skin. Over time, the cultural look of masculinity shifted to be more macho and focused on skincare. became something that is diminishing masculinity. That’s why they’ve developed the range to bring back that old simple but effective skincare.

The need in the market is really clear and simple. There is a need to educate the customer and make the products as simple as possible.

What the future holds according to Future Market Insights.

Future Outlook (2026–2029)

– Shift Toward Needs-Based, Gender-Neutral Lines: As comfort with gender diversity grows, brands will launch inclusive products for SPF, barrier repair, and acne aimed at all genders.

– Ingredient Literacy as Loyalty Driver: Brands that educate consumers about active ingredients -without condescension – will build trust and loyalty, especially as men progress from starter kits to active ingredients and preventive skincare.

References

Future Market Insights – Men’s Grooming Products Market Size and Share Forecast Outlook 2025 to 2035

Cosmetics Business -Cosmetics Business reveals the top 5 male grooming trends of 2025 in new report

Two Dudes – Men Health’s Mission

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Labels like COSMOS, Leaping Bunny, or B-Corp offered instant credibility, signalling to customers that a product was ethical, sustainable, or cruelty-free.

Nowadays, those certifications still hold value, yet they no longer suffice. Consumers are becoming more sceptical, regulators are scrutinising, and watchdogs are exposing the gaps between a certification’s promise and a brand’s actual practices.

The backlash against B-Corp certification in particular marks a turning point. If billion-dollar corporations with questionable practices can wear the same ethical badge as pioneering indie brands, what does the certification truly guarantee? Not to blame the system, but ethos might get lost on a scale.

B-Corp had a waiting list for 2 years, which shows how quickly they had to scale up while onboarding really major clients like Nestle; they were dealing with really small companies that had 1-2 employees.

Another consideration is the impact and its calculation. As someone who has gone through the certification process, I still cannot justify why, in New Zealand, where more than 90% of the materials are exported, it is necessary to buy components from someone in New Zealand, especially since they are already exporting the goods.

On the other hand, I think being ‘better’ for the employees is one of the big benefits that I have seen through the certification process. It forces the companies to act more fairly to the employees and also supports the diversity of the workforce. This let alone is a big impact.

Sustainability is something that we are exploring, and I think no one can be too direct and fair about it yet. At the end of the day, the overconsumption model that we are living in really does not support a full sustainable system yet, this is related to costs, benefits, and so many other things.

Of course, certifications are a way to simplify complex choices for consumers. Creates credibility, guidelines and in some cases a unity to create a solution for a process that is harmful.

For example, RSPO. RSPO created a unified solution to a whole industry of palm and palm derivatives to source responsibly, minimise deforestation, and save the lives of animals that have been in that ecosystem.

In the limits of the all positive and negative impacts, the roots of being ‘worthy’ to the certificates starts with the brands ethics and supply chain management.

Also, for most of the brands that are actually following almost the same rules day to day, a barrier to entry is cost, since the certifications are costly.

In some cases, it even limits the innovation because the source of the component should be applied by the certification body.

Understandably, brands are showing their views on these topics. For example, The B-Corp backlash. Brands began to express their negative views on the certification process after major multinational brands certified and questioned their viability in following the re-certification process.

At the current market, most brands need to show their source of ingredients, and packaging at least has a sustainability value. Today’s consumers, particularly Gen Z and younger millennials, are both value-driven and information-savvy. They want brands to provide proof, not just logos.

So, what tools can help establish lasting credibility?

• Storytelling: Showing the supply chain, discussing ingredient origins, manufacturing methods, and the process of creating the product can help build trust.
• AI tools: Platforms like Provenance could be an excellent starting point for managing sustainability claims. Also, ChatGPT can help you to start your life cycle analysis of a product.

In a short period of time, I am sure we will see the consumer demand for growing on the proof rather than certification. Certifications are just the beginning to establish credibility. It is the brand’s responsibility to stick to the rules and go the extra mile. To meet market demands and lead effectively, brands must consistently exceed expectations in both sustainability and transparency.

BBC Worklife: Has B-Corp certification turned into corporate greenwashing?

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BROWSE SHOWSThe post Ethical beauty: Going beyond certifications first appeared on in-cosmetics Connect.]]> https://connect.in-cosmetics.com/regulations/ethical-beauty-going-beyond-certifications/feed/ 0 23712 https://connect.in-cosmetics.com/ingredients-formulation/stress-relief-beauty-from-scented-promises-to-neurocosmetic-evidence/ https://connect.in-cosmetics.com/ingredients-formulation/stress-relief-beauty-from-scented-promises-to-neurocosmetic-evidence/#respond Wed, 17 Sep 2025 21:34:34 +0000 https://connect.in-cosmetics.com/?p=23638 Stress has become one of the most significant and defining health challenges of our time, impacting millions of people worldwide. It affects not only mental well-being but also shows up as physical fatigue and skin issues. The connection between stress and skin health involves disrupting the skin’s barrier function, which can lead to increased sensitivity. […]

The rise of skincare-infused makeup

The lines between skincare and colour cosmetics are blurring as hybrid products surge in popularity.

These are makeup items (foundations, tints, lip and cheek products, etc.) enriched with skincare ingredients and claims. Driven partly by pandemic-era shifts toward minimalist routines, the hybrid cosmetics category has grown significantly and is predicted to keep expanding as consumers demand more benefits from makeup.

Market reports show multifunctional cosmetics on a steady rise (the U.S. hybrid makeup market grew to $0.76B in 2022 and is projected to reach $1.3B by 2032.

When I started as a formulator, every ingredient supplier was coming up with BB, CC, and DD cream pigments, and colour matching was a huge technology released after a long-held patent. That is why I was really interested to dive deep and learn more about what changed in this era.

Several factors fuel this trend:

• Efficiency & Convenience: Busy consumers enjoy saving time with 2-in-1 or 3-in-1 solutions. A single product that hydrates, protects (e.g. SPF), and provides coverage simplifies routines.

• Consumer “Skin-first” Mindset: Many shoppers now prioritise skin health even when wearing makeup. They seek “makeup with benefits,” preferring formulas infused with actives. This reflects a broader “skinification” trend in beauty, where even traditionally purely cosmetic items now boast skincare properties.

• Post-COVID Aesthetics: With the rise of natural, dewy looks and prolonged mask-wearing, heavy full-coverage makeup gave way to lighter, “your-skin-but-better” products. Tinted moisturisers, skin tints, and serum foundations gained traction as people sought comfortable, breathable coverage that doubles as skin care.

Innovation or Marketing?

Does anyone remember BB, CC, and DD creams, or is it just me?

In the early 2010s, Western markets were introduced to BB creams (short for “Blemish Balm” or “Beauty Balm”), inspired by Asian beauty trends. These products were marketed as all-in-one solutions that combined moisturiser, primer, foundation, skincare ingredients, and SPF protection. The popularity of BB creams led to the emergence of CC creams (“Colour Correctors”) and even DD creams (“Dynamic Do-All” or “Daily Defence”).

The current wave of “makeup-as-skincare” products incorporates elements of true innovation, but it also recalls this history. Savvy marketers are taking advantage of the demand for multifunctional products. For instance, a basic tinted moisturizer can be rebranded as a “skin tint serum with XYZ complex.” Similarly, a lip balm can be marketed as a “lip treatment with antioxidants.”

This trend is particularly noticeable in SPF products, as it helps navigate regulatory challenges by shifting the product’s primary focus.

A noteworthy example is micellar cleansing water, which was once considered revolutionary but is essentially just a gentle surfactant cleanser—an idea that has been around for over a century.

This highlights how effective rebranding can create a “new” category from existing concepts.

New wave of hybrid products: Case studies

To understand how this trend is unfolding, let’s look at a few recent product examples that blur the makeup/skincare line:

• Glow Recipe Watermelon Glow Niacinamide Dewy Blush: Even the term “blush” is used loosely here – Glow Recipe markets it as a “sheer tinted serum” for cheeks and lips, explicitly “not a blush” in the traditional sense. This clean K-beauty-inspired brand, known for fruit-infused skincare, launched the Dewy Flush serum in 2025 as part of its move into colour cosmetics.

Other examples abound: mascaras with lash-conditioning serums, lipsticks infused with peptides and butter, primers with probiotic skincare complexes, and so on. Even mass brands are adding vitamins to foundations or UV protection to setting sprays. This “skincare makeup is the new normal,” especially in markets like China, where it’s reported to be not the exception but expected. The key for companies is to ensure these hybrids deliver on their promises, which brings us to the behind-the-scenes formulation challenges.

Conclusion: A hybrid future demands collaboration

Since minimalism and signification became a trend, this evolution of classic BB, CC and DD creams was inevitable. The growing hybrid skincare trend is more than a passing fad – it represents an evolution in how products are conceived and marketed.

For R&D scientists, the task is to push formulation boundaries to genuinely integrate activities without sacrificing product quality. This means investing in new ingredient technologies (encapsulation, novel emulsifiers, stable active derivatives) and rigorously testing that these hybrids live up to their claims. It’s about ensuring that a “serum foundation” hydrates like a serum or that a “lip balm with peptides” can improve lip smoothness over time, not just contain a barely detectable amount of peptide.

For R&D marketers, the challenge is to craft a compelling story that is truthful and resonates with the modern consumer. History has shown that clever marketing can launch a product into stardom (as seen with micellar water or BB creams), but today’s skintellectual consumers will quickly call out products that over-promise and under-deliver. Transparency about what a hybrid product can and cannot do is key.

In conclusion, the hybrid makeup trend is both an exciting innovation frontier and a savvy marketing evolution. R&D scientists and marketers in beauty should work hand in hand – much like the products themselves blend multiple functions – to ensure we deliver truly effective, delightful hybrids. If we strike the right balance, we’ll continue to earn consumer trust and drive the industry forward, one multi-tasking product at a time.

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Last year, in one of my many trials in losing weight, I started to research how I can help my metabolism to work better; supplements and all the NADs that TikTok tries to make me buy, aside from the physical aspect of the breaking lipids made me start looking on the cavitation hence I started my research on at home tools.

The market for these DIY high-tech tools is expanding at a remarkable pace, growing four times faster than the overall skincare market and is projected to reach roughly $90 billion by the late 2020s. Analysts forecast the global home-use beauty device market will leap from about $17 billion in 2023 to nearly $92 billion by 2030, an astounding ~27% annual growth rate.

This rise reflects a perfect storm of innovation, consumer demand for at-home self-care (especially post-pandemic), and the convergence of beauty with advanced technology.

So why are we seeing this urge?

A Post-Pandemic Beauty Tech Boom

The COVID-19 pandemic was a major inflection point that catalysed the at-home beauty tech boom. In 2020, while colour cosmetics sales plunged, U.S. sales of beauty devices actually grew by 7%, according to Kline Group data, as people sought solutions for “mask” breakouts and spent hours on Zoom scrutinising their skin.

With extra time at home, consumers enthusiastically experimented with facial gadgets and electronic skincare tools. I think recession and turning back to work from the office really helped this category to grow, as instead of spending time in the salon, making a similar treatment at home is easier and quicker.

Tech-Driven Innovations and Device Categories

From high-tech facials to full-body treatments, a wave of innovation is making at-home beauty devices both more effective and more accessible. Today’s gadgets span a wide range of categories and technologies, often miniaturising or adapting professional equipment for safe home use. On the facial skincare front, LED light therapy masks have become ubiquitous in the premium beauty market.

Strategic Investments by Beauty Giants in At-Home Devices

The at-home beauty device market has witnessed significant investments from leading beauty giants, which is also a clue that this segment will grow further.

L’Oréal

At CES 2024, L’Oréal launched innovations like Colorsonic, an at-home hair colouring device for salon-quality results, and AirLight Pro, a professional hair dryer using infrared technology to care for hair and reduce energy use.

Unilever

Unilever invests in AI to improve consumer experiences, launching tools like BeautyHub PRO for personalised product choices, resulting in a 43% increase in purchase likelihood. Additionally, Dove introduced a virtual Scalp + Hair Therapist to meet the demand for personalised scalp care.

Hailey Bieber and ‘The Medicube Effect’

Hailey Bieber’s endorsement of the Medicube Age-R Booster-H highlights its popularity. This Korean beauty device uses electroporation technology to create temporary micro-channels in the skin, boosting the absorption of skincare products by up to 490%. Featured in a TikTok routine, it gained over 16 million views.

The device has various modes, including microcurrent and LED therapy, aimed at improving skin elasticity, reducing wrinkles, and enhancing overall radiance. Users report immediate improvements in texture and hydration, with long-term benefits for scars and fine lines.

During my recent trip to Korea, I noticed the “Medicube Effect” everywhere in beauty stores. It’s now on my Black Friday shopping list, as I’m excited to see how it enhances the products I create. In today’s “skintellectual” era, there’s a growing interest in at-home devices that bring dermatologist-recommended techniques into everyday routines.

The trend is further fuelled by celebrity endorsements and appearances in popular culture, making at-home beauty tech increasingly sought after.

Efficacy and Scientific Validation

With the rise of at-home beauty devices, a key question is their effectiveness. Initially met with scepticism, growing scientific validation suggests they can yield modest results with consistent use. A 2024 review found that these devices may improve skin ageing (like wrinkles and elasticity) with minimal side effects, yet more comprehensive research is needed for long-term validation.

Certain categories, like at-home LED therapy for acne, have shown stronger evidence. A 2025 meta-analysis found red and blue light devices significantly reduced mild-to-moderate acne. Dermatologists now often recommend these devices as adjuncts to traditional treatments.

For anti-ageing, although data is mixed, small trials show improvements in skin tightness and wrinkles with regular use of RF and microcurrent devices. User experience is crucial; success relies on consistent, proper usage and compatible skincare products. Overall, at-home devices can be effective when science-backed and used correctly, but they typically lead to gradual improvements rather than quick fixes.

Outlook: The Future of Beauty is High- Tech and At- Home

The future of at-home beauty devices is promising as beauty and technology continue to merge. More consumers are seeking professional results in the comfort of their own homes. By 2025, marketing efforts will focus on educating shoppers about how these devices work, particularly targeting tech-savvy individuals.

Additionally, these devices may lead to new methods of product delivery. Stricter regulations will support brands that invest in clinical testing and adhere to scientific standards.

Feeling inspired?

Then why not visit one of the in-cosmetics events around the world?

BROWSE SHOWSThe post The rise of at-home beauty devices: Innovation, science, and self-care first appeared on in-cosmetics Connect.]]> https://connect.in-cosmetics.com/trends-en/technology/the-rise-of-at-home-beauty-devices-innovation-science-and-self-care/feed/ 0 23236 https://connect.in-cosmetics.com/trends-en/industry/bridging-the-gap-between-rd-and-marketing-in-the-cosmetics-industry/ https://connect.in-cosmetics.com/trends-en/industry/bridging-the-gap-between-rd-and-marketing-in-the-cosmetics-industry/#respond Thu, 11 Apr 2024 21:07:00 +0000 https://connect.in-cosmetics.com/?p=21652 The cosmetics industry, a realm of rapid change and constant innovation, poses unique challenges to product development. In this dynamic sector, the success of New Product Development (NPD) hinges on the crucial collaboration between Research & Development (R&D) and Marketing teams. To develop successful cosmetic products, the R&D and marketing teams must collaborate closely. R&D […]